Saturday, November 28, 2009

Elderton Wines "Rivernia" 2007 Botrytis Semillon


This offering from Elderton is 100% Semillion sourced from a vineyard in the Rivernia region of New South Wales that is specially designated for allowing the fruit to hang on the vines until the point of optimum borytis development. The botrytis cinerea, or "noble rot", is a fungus that dessicates the grapes, yielding concentrated fruit flavors and sugars that translate into luscious, rich, sweet wines. After fermentation, this wine goes right to bottling under a Stelvin screwcap, and is aged for three months in the bottle before release.

This wine is a bright honey-gold color, with potent aromas of honey, apricot/pineapple marmalade, golden fig, and a pervasive nutty note on the nose. The wine is unctuous and viscous on the palate - real, thick liquid-gold decadence. The marmalde sensation follows through across the palate, bringing honeyed apricot, pineapple, orange, and stone fruit flavors into play, brightened by a dash of lemon and accented by toasted nuts and a hint of cloves. Clings sweetly on the finish, without being overly cloying.

For around $20, this is a great value in a very high-quality botrytized Semillon that offers a taste of Sauternes on a budget (though I won't suggest that those interested in this style do not need to experience the real thing!). This is a luscious, sweet wine with powerful fruit and honeyed nut flavors. Yet, for all of its sugar and syrupy dazzle, it still hangs on to that mellow marmalade character that reminds me of a well-aged Semillon table wine. Rather than pair with dessert, we matched this rich, sweet wine with roquefort, figs, and balsamic for a decadent treat.

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