Caves-de-Lugny "Les Charmes" 2007 Macon-Lugny

"Les Charmes" is a bottling of 100% Chardonnay from a large, south-facing, old-vine vineyard near the Burgundy village of Lugny. The wine sees either no oak or very neutral oak, as evidenced by the crisp, pure fruit. This readily available, affordable, and very food-friendly wine is another good example of the value to be had in Maconnais white wines.
The wine is a brilliant pale gold in the glass, with a nice bouquet of grapefruit, green apples, Meyer lemon, wet stones, and a bit of iodine. The attack is brisk and racy, as the wine expresses crisp acidity and minerality right from the start. Very nice, pure Chardonnay flavors open up on the palate, with nuances of grapefruit, quince, pear, apple, and lemon, accented by pervasive minerality and hints of fresh-mown hay. No tropical notes here - this chard is all about peak acidity, pure fruit, and minerals. The crisp, dry finish cleanses the palate, making this a perfect wine to pair with summer meals.
Another fine bargain from the Macon region, this nice little Chard is a great deal for $8.99. The acidity was an excellent foil for crostinis with chevre to start, and followed up very nicely with sole in a mustard-citrus sauce. Very nice expression of pure Chardonnay fruit-driven richness with little or no oak and malolactic enhancement.

Mini-Vertical: Teusner Wines "The Riebke" 2005 & 2006 Shiraz, Barossa Valley

This was an interesting juxtaposition of two very different wines, both comprised of 100% Shiraz from the same vineyards in the Ebeneezer District of the northern Barossa Valley. Similar vinification practices were used, and both wines spent about twelve months in American oak hogsheads before bottling - so this is a study in pure vintage variation.

The Riebke 2005

This wine is a deep, inky purple with a garnet edge. The nose offers aromas of dark plums, blackberries, and cassis, with tar, sweet oak, and Rhone-ish notes of bacon fat, garrigue, and graphite. It is soft and supple in the mouth, medium-bodied, with pure fruit, sweet tannins, and present acidity. This is a well balanced Shiraz that matches the ripe fruit flavors of blackberry, cherry, and plum, with interesting notes of roast/smoky meats, herbs, earth, and minerals. Plenty of toasty vanilla oak is in the mix as well, but doesn't dominate. The wine is layered through a very nice finish of pure fruit, oak, and gentle tannic grip. A very urbane expression of Barossa Shiraz that pays tribute to the grape's Rhone origins - and an great value at $14.99! Unlike many Aussies, this one is refined enough to pair with roast meat dishes and hard cheeses, etc.

The Riebke 2006

Teusner went from urbane in '05 to "octane" in '06, as the 2006 Riebke is a rip-roaring, full-throttle Barossa Shiraz of the first order! The wine is also a deep, inky purple in the glass. Intense, almost forceful aromas of cherry liquer and blueberry pie erupt from the glass, heavily accented by scorched earth, graphite, oak toast, and faint spices. On the palate this wine is just as brash - full-bodied, plush, jammy, and huge. But I should point out that it maintains serious structure in the form of solid acidity and fine, supple tannins. This is no simple fruit bomb, it is an opulent and intense expression of high-end Aussie Shiraz, with no significant Rhone-ish trappings. Flavors in the mouth are consistent with the nose, gobs of kirsch, blueberry pie, blackberry and plum fruit, with glycerin, scorched earth, tar, white pepper, pain grille, and a hint of eucalyptus. The finish is long and mouth-staining, with plenty of toasty oak and sweet fruit that clings to the cheeks for a long, long time.
This is not a Shiraz for the faint of heart - we actually exclaimed profanities several times while drinking it. It is an apt description - this is a @#$%#$ of a Shiraz!
If you are looking for straight-down-the-middle, hedonistic Barossa fare, it would be hard to beat this wine at any price point. Its no Grange, but at $16.99, it is an absolute steal.
This wine would overpower most foods, except for grilled meats and strong cheeses like dry jack or a bandaged cheddar.

J Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley

There are some instances in selecting wines for purchase where one feels like they are using the "ask the audience" lifeline on 'Millionaire'. I have long wandered by the label for this perpetually sold out wine in Safeway, wondering: "can that many people really be wrong about a $16 Pinot Gris?"... And alternately wondering: "or is this just one nut with some kind of weird obsession for this wine?"... Well, passing by to actually find a bottle on the shelf gave me the chance to see for myself...

This Pinot Gris is sourced from various vinetards in Sonoma County's Russian River Valley. Each vineyard lot is fermented separately in 100% stainless steel, with no malo-lactic fermentation being employed. The wine is cold-stabilized, and then the blend is assembled.

The wine is a clear, straw-gold in the glass, with a very nice bouquet of orange blossoms, white peach, pear, apple, minerals, and a touch of honey. A smooth attack leads to a full-bodied mouthfeel, with tremendous richness for a non-malo, unoaked wine. The richness is matched from start to finish by racy fresh-fruit acidity that makes the flavors really vivid. The white peach, apple, pear flavors are joined on the palate by round and tropical notes of melon, lemon meringue, and mango, with plenty of floral overtones of jasmine and honeysuckle, as well as mineral and fresh-mown hay notes. The vinish is solid, leaving a waxy-viscous coating of white grape and honey on the cheeks, but cleansed by the zippy acidity to close crisp and dry.

The audience is on! This is a great CA Pinot Gris, a fine example of why the Alsatian style of rich-but-crisp Gris is becoming my favorite white wine. I love the melon and hay notes, and the purity of the unoaked fruit. With no invasive oak or malo, this wine still has plenty of stuffing to pair with curries or thai, chicken or pork. Worked very well with miso crusted halibut with stir-fried vegetables.

Hendry Ranch Winery "Block 28" 2005 Zinfandel, Napa Valley

Located in the benchlands south of the Mayacamas Mountains, Hendry Ranch Winery is right between the Carneros, Oak Knoll, and Mt Veeder appellations, and as such is subject to a moderate maritime climate that is a mixture of the climates you would find in those three AVA's. Though, as George, the owner likes to say: "the American AVA system is pretty meaningless - we have way more interesting things to put on our labels". The climate and stony "boomer series" soils are perfect for turning out top-notch Zinfandel.

The Block 28 Zin was havested on Oct 2, 2005, saignage was employed to gain the right sugar levels, and the wine was fermented to dryness at 15.2% apv. The wine was the aged for 15 months in French oak, 65% of which was new.

The wine is deep, dark garnet in the glass, with a ruby edge, and brooding aromas of spicy, briary berries, currant, anise, white pepper, earth, and toasty oak. The Block 28 is a big Zin - concentrated, but poised with a smooth attack that then explodes on the palate in a swell of juicy berry and spice flavors. Raspberry, boysenberry, and mulberry are in the fore, with black currant, licorice, bittersweet chocolate, and any array of complex spice notes. The torrent of flavors carries through to a long and saturated finish, never betraying the heat of the immodest apv %. Acidity is solid, and the tannins are sweet and ripe - very good structure for a 100% Zin.

This is great Zinfandel, combining the best of the "classic" style of juicy berries & spice and bright acidity with the more "Turley-esque" style of high octane and intense, ripe fruit. $30 at the winery, and well worth it - this wine screams out for slow cooked ribs - or as George says, artichokes!

Twomey Vineyards 2002 Merlot, Napa Valley

Twomey Vineyards is an offshoot of Siler Oak Cellars that began when Silver Oak purchased the Soda Canyon Vineyard in southeast Napa Valley, with the intention of growing Cabernet there. Lo and behold they found they had purchased one of Napa's signature caches of Merlot blocks, planted to top-flight clones. If it ain't broke, don't just not fix it - shepherd it along with an enterprise destined to gain accolades for producing "the #1 Merlot in California".

The 2002 Twomey Merlot is 99.4% Merlot with 0.6% Cabernet Franc. Don't ask how anybody knows that anything would taste better with 0.6% of something else blended in, but trust me - after tasting this Merlot, you will not be questioning the winemaker's judgement. The wine was aged for 16 months in French oak, approximately two-thirds of which was new.

The wine is a deep violet color surrounded by ruby. The bouquet offers stunning aromas of black cherry and plums with herbs, Asian spices, espresso roast, and cloves. Could spend a long time just smelling this one without even tasting...but...

The attack and mouthfeel are pure velvet, and introduce the palate to intense flavors of dark chocolate-covered cherries, mixed berries and plums, mocha-espresso roast, garrigue, and positively exotic spices. I try to bring a layman's sensibility to tasting notes, but at some point this Merlot surpassed my threshold for for description. In short - I was tasting "WOW"! There is some indefinable Right Bank Bordeaux quality that CA Merlots seldom touch upon, but this one picks up that ball and runs with it. The finish is somehow both mouth-staining and elegant, and goes on and on.

This wine is serious business - earns the PR tags about "a Right Bank wine on steroids!". The overall impression is one of voluptuousness - silky, but saturated - ripe, but incredibly complex for a grape sometimes derided for its lack of complexity. I have had many great CA Merlots, and it may just be the freshness of the memory, but this one is at the head of the pack right now. Combines the best of Old World character with ripe California fruit. Truly memorable.

$65 at the winery, and to comment on QPR - $195 jumped out of my pocket when I heard the damage, and three went home with me. I am now kicking myself for not being in debt.

I paired this one with a modest serving of filet mignon with balsamic reduction and buttery Swiss chard, and enjoyed much of it afterward as a stand alone. But I recommend pairing this wine with whatever makes you really happy, be it food, cheese, or good company.

Savor this one - salut!

Voss Vineyards 2004 Viognier, Napa Valley

Voss Vineyards is a Napa, CA winery owned by a member of the Hill Smith family, known for their Yalumba Winery in Australia's Barossa Valley, as well as New Zealand's Nautilus Estate. This Viognier is from the Cold Creek Vineyard in the Carneros AVA south of Napa Valley, where cool climates and well-drained sandy loam soils yield concentrated and mature fruit with great natural acidity. The grapes were whole-cluster pressed and the free-run juice was cold-stabilized and underwent a two month long wild yeast fermentation in 1-3 year old Burgundy barrels. The wine was aged 'sur lie' for seven months before bottling.

The wine is a brilliant clear gold in the glass, with floral aromas of honeysuckle, peaches, nectarines, and hints of ginger-y spice. A crisp attack is followed by a nicely balanced mouthfeel, with richness from lees aging played against bracing fresh-fruit acidity. Crisp fruit flavors of white peach and apricot are melded with tropical notes of mango and citrus, with jasmine and honeysuckle overtones. The finish is satisfying, with copious fruit flavors brightened by brisk acidity. Closes clean and crisp.

Great performance from a CA Vio in the $16 price range. Authentic varietal character without the flaws of overripeness or flabiness that can really compromise this grape's wonderful food-friendliness. Tremendous floral aromatics, and all of the pure grape-driven flavors that remind you why Vio is such a "must do" once in a while. Excellent with mildly flavored white fish that lets the delicate flavors of the wine really shine - like the Tilapia with tangerine EVOO, fresh basil, salt & pepper that we enjoyed it with.

W.&J. Graham's "Six Grapes" Reserve NV Port

This NV Ruby Port derives its name from the six traditional Port grape varietals used in the blend: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Amarela and Tintao Cão. The fruit is sourced from many of the same Quintas that Graham's harvests their declared vintages from, with a small portion sourced from Symington Family vineyards. Fortified to 19.5% apv, this NV is made in the style sometimes called "Vintage Character" due to its body and tannic structure.

Opaque purple in the glass with a black core, this wine offers potent aromas of stewed plums, dried cherries, dusty earth, anise, and spices. Come across viscous and sweet on the palate, but with red wine character and tannins that provide a nice counterpoint. Lots of alcohol here, but also lots of flavor that reminds you you're drinking a wine and not just grape spirits. This Port is all dried cherries, plums, and prunes, with spiciness and a bit of grip. Great finish of sweet black fruits. Comes together nicely over a few days with some overhead in the bottle.

I have very limited experience with vintage ports, and some of those I have tried were too young and tannic. This wine gave me a simplified glimpse of what a solid vintage would head towards with adequate age. Easily my favorite true NV Porto to date, which makes for a great deal at $18. I have a soft spot for a few CA Zinfandel "Ports" that I have tried, but that is to some extent a different animal. "Six Grapes" is great with blue-veined cheeses, and an absolute guilty pleasure with a warm chocolate "lava" cake. Highly recommended!

J.Lohr Vineyards "Hilltop Vineyard" 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

This Cabernet is sourced from J Lohr's prized Hilltop Vineyard in the Paso Robles region of San Luis Obispo County. The Cabernet undergoes fermentation and an extended maceration in stainless steel before being aged in 80% new French oak for 20 months. It is blended with small percentages of Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec.

The wine is deep purple in the glass, with a garnet edge. The bouquet opens with air to offer solid aromas of black cherry, currant, and blackberry pie, with hints of mint, anise, and pain grille. A smooth attack is followed by medium body, with nice primary flavors of black cherry, blackberry, and currant accented by cedar, mint, cloves, anise, and vanilla. Very good acidity and ripe tannins with supple grip provide solid structure through to a moderately long finish full of cherry liqueur, dark berries, and brioche toast that stays dry and is never juicy.

This is a solid example of what I expect in a good (not great) $25 bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon. Rather primary and conventional, but varietally spot-on in California fashion without being overly ripe or flabby. Has the tannic structure to age for several years and improve, but is accessible now with a good decant. Tasteful oak regimen, good balance - definitely works if you want to play it safe at the price point. Try with dry jack or some clothbound cheddar, or a no-brainer with a rather 'naked' piece of tender steak.

Penley Estates "Hyland" 2006 Shiraz

Been drinking a lot of Aussie Shiraz lately - big, chewy, ripe red wines, but I think it is a similar counter-intuitive principle to the whole "spicy Mexican or Asian (etc) foods actually cool you down in the summer" thing. Robust as they are, these big, jammy wines just work as the daytime heat cools in the evening - and of course, they are great with bbq. I feel the same way about Zinfandel - must be the spiciness, as the rich, silky brawn of the Bordeaux grapes doesn't quite pair as well with the season...
Anyway, Penley Estates sources this Hyland Shiraz from the Coonawarra region of southeastern Australia. The wine was fermented to 15% apv, and matured for one year in American oak, 25% of which was new.
The wine is a clear, deep garnet, with an opaque purple core. The nose holds solid blackberry and blueberry pie aromas, with creamy vanilla oak, and notes of aniseseed, menthol-eucalyptus, and sasaparilla root. A soft and forward attack is followed by a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, with moderate acidity and mellow tannins with sufficient grip. Very accessible now. Flavors are mouthfilling and consistent with the nose - berry pie, with baked plum and a hint of earthiness and peppery spice added to the mix. The finish is solid and fruit-stained, with a tasteful whack of vanilla oak toast and enough structure to add a touch of refinement.
Another solid performer from Oz in the $12 range. Mainstream for the genre - these are not really distinguished Shiraz bottlings, but as the QPR equation goes, the "upper-middle end of the pack" of Aussies tends to offer more wine per dollar than most other genres at your local market. You have to be in the mood for lots of ripe fruit, but if you are, you'll find lots of satisfaction in the Australia section for $10-$15. Like many other selections from the '06 vintage, Penley's Hyland brings pronounced herbal, root, and menthol-eucalyptus accents to the mix that add interest. A solid value that does well on its own or would be great with a grilled steak or rack of slow-cooked ribs.

Au Bon Climat 2007 Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc

Renowned for quality Pinot Noirs at reasonable prices, this Central Coast white blend represents a nice change of pace from this negociant/estate winery located on Santa Barbara County's Bien Nacido Vineyard. Not a lot of technical info available on this proprietary white blend, and mine is not the palate to discern the % of Gris v Blanc that went into the blend. I can say that the wine is crisp and pure, with a tasteful hint of of roundness and toast that suggest a small part of the mix saw at least partial malolactic fermentation in used barrels.
The wine is a brilliant pale gold in the glass, with aromas of green apples, meyer lemon, hay, iodine, and minerals that opened nicely as it warmed from fridge temperature. A brisk attack betrays zippy, fresh-fruit acidity that is matched by plenty of apple, pear, grapefruit, and pineapple, touched with gingery spices and the aforementioned hint of oak. Finishes crisp and clean with a nice balance of sweet fruit and racy acids.
Real nice performance here for $14. This is a fine change of pace from standard CA fare of Chards and Sauv Blancs. An impressive expression of Alsace varietals, with the grain, iodine, and mineral notes that you might expect from it's Old World counterparts. The crisp acidity here is palate-cleansing - this wine just begs to be on the dinner table, cozied up to some nice white fish, or maybe a grilled chicken pasta and cream sauce. Ours rocked with seared sea bass with a citrus meuniere.

Rocland Estate "The Chocolate Box" 2006 Shiraz, Barossa Valley

I just couldn't resist this marketing ploy - the promise of a rich, chocolate-y Barossa Shiraz is something I just don't pass up that often. This 100% Shiraz from Rocland Estate of the Barossa was basket-pressed and fermented to 14.9%apv, then aged for 18 months in new and second-use American and French oak hogsheads.
The wine is a clear, deep garnet with a magenta edge, with decent aromas of dark plums, blackberries, and cracked peppercorn on the nose, nuanced by mocha espresso and eucalyptus. It is medium to full-bodied in the mouth, very fruit forward, but with some acidity and mild, ripe tannins keeping things in line. There are certainly chocolate flavors here, but not as dominant as the label might suggest. Instead, this is another solid Barossa Shiraz in classic form - lots of blackberry, plum, and black cherry fruit, with vanilla oak, coffee, white pepper, scorched earth, and plenty of herbal-eucalyptus accents. The solid finish is full of sweet fruit and choco-vanilla oak, with mildly drying tannins.
If this weren't such a satisfying offering, I'd gripe about false advertising, as this should have been called "The Shiraz Box". No exceptional degree of chocolate flavoring here, just solid, if undistinguished, mainstream Barossa fare. Will certainly fix your Aussie Shiraz jones, but the quality-price rapport in the genre is so favorable that this nice wine is just a decent value at $18.

Peter Lehmann Wines "Clancy's" 2005 Red Wine, Barossa Valley

A Barossa Valley take on a Bordeaux blend, "Clancy's" from Peter Lehmann Wines is 35% Shiraz, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The wine was fermented to 14.5 apv% and 2.8 g/l of residual sugar, and was then aged for 12 months in mixed French and American barrels before bottling.

The wine has a deep garnet core, fading to clear crimson at the edge. The wine started out somewhat closed, but opened with time in the air - to nice aromas of plum and blackberry, with violets, cedary oak, pepper, mint, and thyme. Still young and tight on the palate (a candidate for either more bottle age or a very long decant), but shows promise in generous plum, blackberry, and currant flavors framed by polished acidity, and still grippy but fine-grained tannins. Accents of thyme, cloves, and peppery spices, along with well-integrated toasty oak add interest, and the whole affair stays poised through a satisfying finish. Opened up, and was much smoother and accessible on the second night.

For a $14 bottle, this is a refined and satisfying effort, Yet another fine value from down under. Plenty of forward fruit, but framed by solid, short-term ageworthy structure. All of the varietals show their character as well, this is not another Shiraz-dominated Aussie. If this is a "fruit bomb", it is one of the more polished and elegant value-priced wines to deserve that monniker. At present, pan-seared NY strips with a wine de-glazed pan sauce gave those tannins something to chew on, and made for a most pleasurable meal!

Eric Ross Winery "Poule D'Or" 2005 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley

Eric Ross Winery is a small operation based in California's Green Valley, with a tasting room on Arnold drive in the Sonoma Valley. This small-lot bottling (literally "Golden Hen" in French), is a blend of the finest barrels of Russian River Pinot Noir from the 2005 vintage. Winemakers Eric Luse and John Ross Storey tasted through all of the winery's Pinot Noir barrels before making selection for this blend - and they clearly knew what they were doing. The wine spends a year in Frenck Oak before bottling.

This Pinot is a clear, medium-ruby color, with generous aromas of bing cherry, rhubarb, baking spices, and cola, with hints of coffee and smoke, and sweet & toasty oak. On the palate, the wine offers a very Burgundian juxtaposition of lightness and intensity, refinement and depth. A smooth attack is followed by a light, silky, and layered mouthfeel. Solid acidity and ripe, sweet tannins keep things poised as the wine treats the taste buds to waves of cherry, strawberry, and rhubarb, with forest and pie crust notes. Accents of roast coffee, baking spices, and toasty oak add complexity. The finish is long, and really sings.

This Pinot really delivers. Not the typical ripe and forward West-Coast Pinot, this one brings plenty of fruit to the fore, but with a light and deft touch that makes the intensity of the flavors come almost as a surprise. Even the light color in the glass threw me off on what to expect in the flavor profile. This is a layered, complex, and refined PN - a nice expression of Russian River terroir. $40 at the winery, and worth it. Rock-solid acidity gives this bottling great versatility with food - it was a perfect match for pork chops braised with apples and herbs.

Finca Antigua 2006 Garnacha, La Mancha

Spain strikes again with another nice value Garnacha here. This wine is 100% Garnacha (Grenache), sourced from high-altitude old-vine vineyards, fermented in stainless steel, and aged for three months in American oak casks. A Berkman Cellars import.

The wine is a pretty deep ruby color in the glass, with a nice nose of dusty cherry and brambly raspberry fruit, with white pepper, violets, and a hint of oak. It is casual and consistent on the palate - plenty of cherry and ripe, briary berries, with hints of loam, minerals, and tobacco. This nice, rustic flavor profile is accompanied some very urbane structure in the form of fine, dusty tannins and zippy, bright acidity. Stays flavorful and polished through a satisfying finish of red fruit, spice, and a hint of toast.

This is just a nice little wine for $12.95. Not a jaw-dropper at all, but really fun to drink. Great acidity makes the fruit flavors really pop in the mouth, and the rusticity and intensity are very satisfying for the price point. A no-brainer to pair with native combos of all kinds of Spanish fare, from Chorizo to Manchengo. Or some mixed grill, like chicken and steak kebabs!

Mini Vertical: Rosenblum Cellars "Annette's Reserve" 2004 & 2005 Zinfandel, Redwood Valley

This "mini-vertical" came about as a result of a local grocer discounting this Rosenblum bottling from $39.99 down to $18.49 - worth taking a chance on a half-case! Got home to find that we actually grabbed two from one vintage and four from another, ergo... the head-to-head

Both of these Zin's are sourced from the Rhodes Vineyard, a dry-farmed and head-pruned old vine vineyard just northeast of Ukiah in Mendocino's Redwood Valley. The blending of 15% Petite Sirah and 5% Carignan adds tannins and structure, and the wines were aged in a combination of new and used French and American oak.

I won't do two separate TNs on these two vintages, as they are a study in consistency. This bottling is apparently for the for the fan of full-throttle, ripe Zinfandel - year-in and year-out.

The wine is a deep ruby-purple color with a bright edge. The nose is a mammoth wave of ripe, dark berries and black cherry wafting up from the glass, accented with Asian spices, licorice, and plenty of toasty oak. There is plenty of alcohol here (14.9%), but the aromas are so expressive that the overall effect of the bouquet is that of potency, not heat. Unlike the bright, berries-and-spice Zinfandel, this is a deep, intense, and brooding wine, with a dark edge to its superripe flavors. The full-bodied mouthfeel carries fruit-stained flavors of black, blue, and boysenberry compote, black cherry, and dark currant, with anise, milk chocolate, and hints of hoisin sauce along with generous toast and vanilla oak. Solid acidity maintains some brightness, and ripe, integrated tannins paint the flavors on the cheeks and tongue. The finish is long for Zinfandel - a wave of ripe fruit, sweet and toasty oak, and gentle tannic grip.

These are pretty intense Zinfandels, borderline exhausting and overripe. But, if you are in the mood for that kind of thing, they are fantastic. They possess a depth and complexity that is hard to find in the $18 range. The 2005 came across as slightly more forward and ripe than the 2004, but that could be as much a function of an extra year in the bottle as any other manner of vintage variation. For $39.99, a Zin would need to be transcendental, and I won't go that far here - but for $18.49, these are a ridiculous value. Too much for most foods - except maybe grilled steaks, or ripe cheddar and dry jack, and the like.

Chalone Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay, Monterey

Although Chalone's estate vineyards occupy their own unique AVA between Monterey and San Benito County to the north, this value-priced "Monterey County" bottling is made with fruit sourced from the Salinas Valley, where cool ocean breezes funnel up the valley, creating prime growing conditions for Cardonnay in AVAs like Arroyo Seco. A modest oak regimen of ten months in mixed used barrels keeps this Chard fruit-focused.

The wine is bright gold in the glass, with nice aromas of meyer lemon, apple, pear, stone fruits, and brioche. On the palate, the brisk attack tells of crisp acidity, while the flaror profile strikes a nice balance between fruit, minerality, and richness derived from sur lie aging. Lemon curd, pear, green apple, and whie peach mingle with pastry and toast notes, with an underlying limestone minerality, and a tasteful touch of creaminess. The finish is consistent and of decent length, with plenty of fruit and a dash of oak, but closes dry and clean.

For a $9 Chardonnay, this is a definite winner - combines varietal correctness with a tasteful oak and malolactic treatment, and a bit of class from the good acidity and minerality. No rough edges or disjointed alcohol - a no-brainer, go-to CA Chardonnay for any occasion. Delicious with broiled chicken cutlets wrapped around spinach and brie!

Altano Tinto Reserva 2003 Douro

This Douro Tinto is a table wine produced by Altano, a Symington Family winery dedicated to producing Douro still wines of comparable quality to Symington Estates' fortified Ports. This wine is a blend of Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional sourced from Symington Family Estates vineyards, vinified at their Quinto do Sol winery on the Douro River, and aged for ten months in first and second year seasoned American oak casks.

The wine is a deep ruby color with a bright magenta edge. The nose was reticent at first, but opened to nice aromas of dried plums, cherries, spices, and minerals. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, with fine, sweet tannins, and good acidity that lends a smooth, almost light mouthfeel. Flavors of raisined plums, black cherry, and blackberry mix with mild peppery spices and hints of leather, smoke, herbs, and oak. Chalky minerality gives almost a fine particulate quality to the mouthfeel. The somewhat brief finish stays the course, with a whack of oak toast and fine, grainy tannins.

This one was $18, and for that money didn't quite measure up to some of the more affordable offerings coming from the Douro nowadays. Had less intensity of aromas and flavors than I have come to expect from the powerful, "international" still wines being made by the younger generation of Portuguese winemakers. Still a fair value - and enjoyable, if a little thin and non-descript. Pair with Spanish sausages, Manchengo - a quaffable Tapas wine!

Cameron Hughes Wines - Lots #81 & #82: Napa Cab Head-to-Head

At long last, I get to sample the "Lot Series" from rising star negociant and voracious self-promoter Cameron Hughes. And no better way than with this pair of Cabernet Sauvignons from Napa's 2006 vintage. Lot #81 gets an AVA designation of the Spring Mountain District, while Lot #82 gets a broader designation of "Napa Valley". Cam's guess is that Rutherford, Coombesville, and/or Yountville fruit is involved in #82 - but in both cases, disclosure is that he "got it from a guy who got it from a guy". The interesting thing is that the two bottlings do illustrate an interesting juxtaposition of "mountain fruit" to wine from the valley floor...

Lot #81 - 2006 Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

This Cab has a deep garnet core with a ruby edge. Lifted aromas of currants, cassis, and bittersweet chocolate on the nose, with cigar box and toasty oak. On the palate, the wine is big, but nicely structured, with fine tannins and bright acidity. Plenty of classic Cabernet fruit here in the guise of cassis, currants, blackberries, and plums, but with a refined touch derived from structure and balance. Plenty of toasty-vanilla oak in play, as well as hints of herb leaf, chocolate, and tobacco. The finish is of good length and full of fruit, oak, and grip - but bright and crisp as the nice core of acidity follows through as well. Could definitely use a little time, but this is a great buy for $18.

Lot #82 - 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

This wine has an opaque purple core with just a slight fade at the edge, very extracted. The nose is full of brooding dark fruit aromas of plum, blackberry, and cassis, with espresso roast and plenty of toasty oak. On the palate, the wine is ripe and saturated, with gobs of sweet fruit and glycerin over moderate acidity and young, chewy tannins. A classic, fruit forward Napa Cab with flavors of Damson plums, blackberry, cassis, dark chocolate, cedar, and coffee. Stays big, and still grippy and tight, through the fruit-stained finish. Also definitely needs time, more emphatically so than the #81, but is also a great buy for $20.

McRae Family Winery 2005 Pinot Noir, Bacigalupi Vineyard

This bottle is a small-lot gem that I am thrilled to write about. McRae Family Winery is a relatively tiny operation that samples and sells their wines online and through the Family Wineries tasting room in Kenwood, CA, in the Sonoma Valley. This Pinot Noir was sourced from the Bacigalupi Vineyard along Westside Road in the Russian River Valley, next door to such Pinot luminaries as Williams-Selyem and Rochioli. The fruit was basket-pressed, vinified in open-top fermenters, and aged for one year in French oak, 35% new.
The wine is a lovely medium-ruby color with intense aromas of Satsuma plum, red berries and currants, baking spices and forest floor. Hits the mouth with a brisk attack poised on bright acidity, and then unfurls on the tongue in layers that are pure silk. This Pinot combines the best qualities of ripe, CA fruit with Burgundian complexity and sense of place. Red plum, cherry, blackberry, cranberry, and pomegranate all come to mind, mixed with baking spice and pie crust notes, and savory underpinnings of forest and earth. Maintains its intensity across the palate, and the finish really sings, with all the fruit and spice notes joined by warm and toasty oak.
I think it is clear that I really loved this wine. This is a $40 bottle that really delivers. Many do at that price point, but this one has a little more layering, complexity, silkiness, and terroir than most. A wonderful expression of single-vineyard, Russian River fruit. Next-level synergy paired with a pork tenderloin rubbed with oil and herbs-de-Provence. I'll be heading back for more...

Hugel et Fils "Cuvee Les Amours" 2005 Pinot Blanc, Alsace

I have really been cultivating a great appreciation for Alsatian wines of late. This cool region of Eastern France produces tremendously food-friendly wines such as crisp Rieslings, spicy Gewurztraminer, rich Pinot Gris, and this wine, a crisp and tasty Pinot Blanc. This bottling of 100% steel-fermented and matured Alsatian Pinot Blanc is bottled by the ancient, and still family-owned Domain of Hugel et Fils, reknowned for minerally wines of great finesse (and some world-class late harvest wines as well). A Fredrick Wildman import.
This wine is a clear, pale-gold in the glass, with aromas of white flowers, green apple, pear, and rain-washed stones. On the palate, the wine continues to express delicacy, with a light, smooth mouthfeel, despite generous apple, pear, and white peach flavors. The fruit is braced by very good acidity, the suggestion of a bit of 'frizzante', and a pervasive, but subtle minerality. Not a long finish, but one that is very concise, clean, and palate cleansing, leaving dry echoes of apple and pear fruit.
This wine is another score for only $11. A poised and delicate expression of Alsatian Pinot Blanc, it is striking how different this other pink-skinned descendant of Pinot Noir is to its rich and round cousin, Pinot Gris. This would be an outstanding apertif wine, and also made a great match with a sea bass in saffron beurre-blanc and rainbow trout with herb butter. Think crisp, light and refreshing.

Yalumba Wine Company 2007 Viognier, South Austrailia

This South Australian Viognier is sourced from the Eden and Barossa Valleys. Not much in the way of winemaker notes available for this wine, but my guess is that traditional methods and stainless steel fermentation were used, possibly some neutral-barrel aging - but one of the pleasures of Viognier is that the fruit itself is so rich, it is sometimes hard to tell. This wine has a crisp, fresh-fruit feel that may come from being completely unoaked.
The wine is a pale straw-gold in the glass. Not as explosively floral as some Vios, this one offers some aromas of jasmine and white blossoms amidst plenty of apricot, peach, musk, and gingery spice. It is keen and focused on the palate, with juicy peach, apricot, musk melon, and pure white grape flavors firmed up by a brisk core of acidity. Accents of mild spices, honey, and aniseseed add interest, with a pleasant bit of creaminess coming into play on the back palate and through the mildly abbreviated finish.
This is an easy drinking, enjoyable Viognier for only $11. Doesn't show you all that the varietal is capable of, but at this value price point, it is correct and flavorful, and avoids the common pitfall of overripeness or low acidity/flabbiness that sometimes mars New World Vios. The varietal has a very narrow window for peak ripeness and acid balance, and apparently the Yalumba folks know to strike while the iron is hot. A perfect partner for white fish entrees like the rainbow trout almondine we tried it with.

Morgante 2006 Nero D'Avola, Sicilia

Here is a fine value example of this native Sicilian grape varietal that is gaining quite a buzz for itself of late. This 100% Nero D'Avola is sourced from Sicilian hillside vineyards. The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged for one year in 100% French oak before being fined with egg whites, filtered, and bottled.
The wine is a deep ruby color, with nice aromas of black cherry, blackberries, leather, vanilla, and faint spices. It is balanced and smooth on the palate, with fine tannins and decent acidity played against overt ripeness. The flavors are consistent with the aromas on the nose - black cherry, dark and red berries, with a bit of stewed plum, and accents of leather, vanilla, white pepper, earth and oak. The wine has a really nice rusticity about it, and starts tight, but opens nicely with time in the decanter. Finishes with good length, on a theme of dark fruit, oak, leather and spice.
For $12, I can't find anything to complain about here. Nero D'Avola is a wine that showcases lush fruit, but does so with style, structure, and an Old World, rustic finesse. Casual and accessible, but with balance and structure - a no-brainer with red sauce pastas, and other one-pot stews and sauces. Highly recommended!

Domaine Pichot 2007 Vouvray "Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette"

This bottling is a classic, demi-sec (lit: "half-dry") Chenin Blanc from France's Loire Valley. The fruit comes from steep, chalky-soiled, low-yielding vineyards around the village of Vouvray. The fruit is cold-fermented and then the wine is aged for six months all in 100% used French oak before being lightly filtered and bottled.

This wine is a pale-gold in the glass, with very floral aromas of lime, quince, and green apple on the nose, touched by spices and chalky minerals. Comes across as racy and brisk on the palate, with great acidity balancing juicy fruit flavors of white peach, honeydew rind, quince, golden fig, and apples. Although we would translate demi-sec as "off-dry", don't let that fool you - there is so much fresh fruit acidity here that the bit of residual sugar never comes across as cloying. The gingery spice and chalky mineral notes follow through in the background, along with suggestions of spritz, and the wine finishes with sweet fruit braced by crisp acidity. Never a hint of oak.

This is a simple, refreshing, thouroghly enjoyable taste of the Loire. Not a lot of complexity here, just solid flavors, palate-cleansing acidity, and modest alcohol content. Tremedous food-friendliness - we enjoyed it immensely with Petrale sole in a saffron beurre-blanc, or would be outstanding as an apertif wine. Well worth the $12 we paid.

Livermore Valley Cellars "The Caboose" 2006 Zinfandel

This is our second sampling from the mixed four-pack of Zinfandels that we purchased when we visited LVC recently at their Livermore Valley tasting room. This wine is 60% Sblendorio Vineyard Zin, 10% Hansen Ranch Zin, 10% Kestrel Ridge Zin, and 20% Clark Vineyard Petite Sirah, co-fermented.

The wine is medium-garnet with a dark core, offering up concentrated aromas of black raspberries and boysenberries, with raisins, licorice, milk chocolate, and cracked pepper. Unlike the Hansen Ranch, which was a more medium-bodied, classic "berries and spice" Zinfandel, The Caboose is a big wine in the Turley style. Lots of liquer-ish, jammy, forward fruit here, ranging from boysenberry, raspberry, and kirsch, to raisined plums, with a briary forest-fruit quality. Generous accents of anise, milk chocolate, and white pepper join toasty vanilla oak in backing up the jam-fest. Supple, ripe tannins coat the mouth and add grip, and modest acidity struggles to keep the pace, but manages to hang in there. The finish is a mouth-staining swell of berry pie, chocolate, and licorice, with chewy tannins and a decent whack of oak toast.

This is a full-bodied, borderline exhausting expression of Zinfandel - and I loved it! Petite Sirah definitely shows itself in the raisiny/liquer-ish fruit and chewy tannins, and there is a wide range of jammy fruit on the palate from the multiple Zin components. For $20, if you are looking for a big, forward, full-throttle Zinfandel, you really can't go wrong here. A great bbq wine, or match with dry jack and aged, bandaged cheddar.

A mood wine - but if you are in the mood for big fruit, big alcohol, big oak, and the whole shebang, The Caboose brings it all to the table, with character.