Feisty's Wines - Wine Tasting Notes Archive

Vinosia SRL "Vinosia" 2007 Primitivo, Lugosano

2009-12-04T16:27:00.006-05:00

This 100% Primitivo hails from Lugosano, in the Salento region of southeastern Italy - literally the "heel" of the boot. Continuing a recent trend in my notes, at $9.99 this is yet another overperforming value, this time giving Italy its due.

The wine is a medium-garnet color with a crimson edge. The bouquet offers bright aromas of spicy cherry, strawberry, and boysenberry fruit, accented by molasses, pepper and toasty oak. The wine has a smooth attack and a medium-body, which seems fuller due to the intensity of the fruit. Making a strong case for the shared genetic heratige of Primitivo and Zinfandel, this wine is brimming with briary berry fruits and peppery spice, with cherry, orange zest, and licorice flavors against a background of carmelized oak. The finish is a bit abbreviated (which, with the sweet fruit flavors can lead to quaffing), but a fine performance nonetheless.

This wine is another example of the kind of quality you can find in a casual $10 sipper if you know where to look. The Primitivo and Nero D'Avola wines coming from some of these younger producers in southern Italy are forging ahaead on the quality front in leaps and bounds. While these wines are not as steeped in tradition and a sense of place as the much pricier wines of northern Italy, you will not be enjoying a $10 Brunello or Barolo any time soon. This is a wonderful partner for Italian-style meatloaf with a beef ragu.

Mas Que Vinos "Ercavio" 2007 Tempranillo, Toledo

2009-12-04T16:25:00.003-05:00

Now we arrive at Spain, another value-rich part of the wine world.

Although the label of the Mas Que Vinos Ercavio Roble states that this is a "Table Wine", this wine is 100% Tempranillo from the Castile-La Mancha region of Central Spain The wine was aged for five months in mixed French and American oak.

This wine is a glass-coating inky-purple color, with solid aromas of cherry liquer, blackberries, plums, smoke, and violets on the nose, accented with white pepper, roast meat, and chalky minerals. The wine is smooth on the attack, and full-bodied but open-knit on the palate with modest acidity and gentle tannins that give it a silky mouthfeel. Liquerish and juicy mixed dark cherry and berry fruits dominate the mid-palate, with echoes of smoked meat, earth, licorice, and mineral. The wine remains large-scaled but soft and accesible through the solid finish which is saturated by chewy dark fruit flavors with a bit of smoky oak coming through.

This wine continues a string of stellar values. While clearly crafted in a modern, "International" style, this is still as quality of an expression of Spanish Tempranillo as you are likely to find for $10. Delightfully rustic, and with a soft, round mothfeel more reminiscent of Merlot or Malbec than Rioja or Priorat. This is a big, broad-shouldered and fruit forward wine to enjoy now. A great match with Spanish hard cheeses like aged Mahon and Manchego.

Quivira Vineyards "Barrel Complete" 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley

2009-12-04T16:24:00.003-05:00

This wine is 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the biodynamic Fig Tree Vineyard on Quivira's Dry Creek Valley estate. Adding an interesting twist to conventional CA Sauv Blanc viniculture, winemaker Steven Canter barrel ferments and ages about 40% of this wine in a combination of French oak and Acacia wood barrels, giving the wine a richer mouthfeel than the racy and crisp un-oaked Fig Tree Vineyard bottling (pictured).

This wine is a brilliant pale-gold in the glass, with nice aromas of meyer lemon, pear, and melon rind on the nose, accented by subtle lanolin, woodsmoke, gingery spice, and flinty minerals. The wine has a smooth attack which rolls into a beatifully sliky and creamy mouthfeel. Solid acidity acts as a foil to the influence of the wood and keeps everything balanced and far from too round. This lovely mouthfeel is a vehicle for meyer lemon, grapefruit, pear, and waxy melon flavors of excellent purity and depth. An complex array of subbtle oak, smoke, spice, herb, and mineral flavors play in the background and do not intrude on the forward fruit. Everything follows through nicely on the finish, with the bright acidity bringing things to a clean and refreshing close. As befits the purity, a white grape note lingers.

I really love this wine. It takes Sauvignon Blanc to a very different place, without compromising the purity of the fruit. The way the fruit, acidtiy, and even the influence of the different woods from the barrels come together on the palate is fascinating. The fresh-fruit acidity characteristic of pretty much all manifestations of Sauvignon Blanc is there in full force, so this is definitely a food wine. My choice was Chilean sea bass with a reduced pan sauce made from this wine, pomelo juice, and a bit of butter and fresh herbs. The combination was phenomenal.

$28 at the winery does not make this a bargain as Sauvignon Blanc goes, but youy will rarely find such a singular expression of this varietal from CA - or perhaps anywhere but Sancerre and Graves.

D'Arenberg Wines "The Stump Jump" 2008 Shiraz, McLaren Vale

2009-12-04T16:23:00.003-05:00

Keeping with the value theme, this wine is a strong contender for 'value wine of the year' honors. Unlike previous vintages where the Stump Jump was more of a Cotes-du-Rhone style blend, the '08 is 100% Shiraz from various parcels in the McLaren Vale appellation. The wine was fermented in open-topped vats and then basket-pressed to seasoned French and American oak barriques, where it aged for about ten months before bottling.

This wine has a deep, garnet core with a ruby edge. The bouquet offers vibrant black cherry, blackberry, and sweet plum aromas, touched by anise, white pepper, and scorched earth. The wine is smooth, balanced, and very accesible, delivering a core of pure fruit flavors with an intensity that is way beyond its price point. With black cherry and dark berry flavors leading the charge, the wine also hints at candied plum and strawberry as a fair dash of acidity keeps the flavors bright and vivacious across the palate. Very tatseful oak, pepper, and chocolate flavors emerge on the back palate, along with barely perceptible tannins. These add layers of complexity to the deep and ripe fruit flavors that finish with great persistence.

A fruit-bomb, yes, but no simpleton of a wine - this is an Aussie fruit bomb of the highest order, at a $9 price point that makes it caseworthy. A study in sweet, jammy and pure Mclaren Vale Shiraz fruit, with no pretensions and no rough edges. This could be a fine bbq wine, and we enjoyed it immensely as a stand-alone (with a few dark chocolate buttons that played beautifully off the fruit!)

Maipe 2008 Malbec, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza

2009-12-04T16:21:00.002-05:00

Fans of Argentinian Malbec who are looking for an everyday bottle to buy by the case should look no further than this excellent $9 bottle. 100% Malbec from the Lujan de Cuyo appellation of Mendoza, produced by Maipe with consulting from reknowned winemaker Alberto Antonini.

This deep purple-colored wine offer up expressive aromas of violets, blackberry, black cherry, toast, cedar, charcoal, and graphite on the nose. A smooth attack is followed by a plush, round mouthfeel loaded with succulent blackberry, cherry and plum fruit. Accents of flowers, chocolate, coffee and toasty oak offer tremendous complexity for the price point. The decent finish is mouth-staining, and full of jammy black fruits. The acidity and tanins are modest, but this wine is not trying to make old bones. There is lots of juicy, pure fruit here to enjoy now.

Again, outstanding value here - a high quality and authentic expression of Malbec fruit and Mendoza terroir in a youthful and uncomplicated package. You really can't ask for more for the money. This was wondeful paired with a seared and sliced skirt steak 'au poivre' drizzled with a brandy-cream pan sauce.

Elderton Wines "Rivernia" 2007 Botrytis Semillon

2009-11-28T15:29:00.003-05:00

This offering from Elderton is 100% Semillion sourced from a vineyard in the Rivernia region of New South Wales that is specially designated for allowing the fruit to hang on the vines until the point of optimum borytis development. The botrytis cinerea, or "noble rot", is a fungus that dessicates the grapes, yielding concentrated fruit flavors and sugars that translate into luscious, rich, sweet wines. After fermentation, this wine goes right to bottling under a Stelvin screwcap, and is aged for three months in the bottle before release.

This wine is a bright honey-gold color, with potent aromas of honey, apricot/pineapple marmalade, golden fig, and a pervasive nutty note on the nose. The wine is unctuous and viscous on the palate - real, thick liquid-gold decadence. The marmalde sensation follows through across the palate, bringing honeyed apricot, pineapple, orange, and stone fruit flavors into play, brightened by a dash of lemon and accented by toasted nuts and a hint of cloves. Clings sweetly on the finish, without being overly cloying.

For around $20, this is a great value in a very high-quality botrytized Semillon that offers a taste of Sauternes on a budget (though I won't suggest that those interested in this style do not need to experience the real thing!). This is a luscious, sweet wine with powerful fruit and honeyed nut flavors. Yet, for all of its sugar and syrupy dazzle, it still hangs on to that mellow marmalade character that reminds me of a well-aged Semillon table wine. Rather than pair with dessert, we matched this rich, sweet wine with roquefort, figs, and balsamic for a decadent treat.

Georges DuBoeuf "Jean Descombes" 2007 Morgon

2009-11-28T15:28:00.004-05:00

This Beaujolais is 100% Gamay Noir, sourced from "Cru" vineyards surrounding the village of Morgon. Domaine bottled for Les Vins Georges DuBoeuf, the largest Vinegron in Beaujolais and the "father" of the Beaujolais Nouveau phenomenon.

This wine is a brilliant medium ruby color, with a garnet core. The bouquet offers nice aromas of peony flowers, raspberries, red currants, sour cherry, iodine, and wet stones. Smooth and bright on the attack, the wine shows nice acidity and solid tannic structure for a Beaujolais. Very accessible now, but with enough stuffing to cellar for several years. Generous flavors of cassis, currant, cranberry, and morello cherry surround a decidedly grapey-fruit core, with a pleasantly salty tang and the wet stones minerality providing nice contrast to the fruit. Finishes with a flourish of fruit and flowers braced by the fine, sweet tannin.

Seems like every time I re-visit my notes on a Cru Beaujolais, I regret the relative dirth of these wines in my regular "rotation". There would be an irreplaceable gap in my wine world without them. This bottling from DuBouef is a perrennial great value in the $10 range, and the 2007 definitely keeps the streak alive. Refreshingly medium-bodied, with great purity and modest alcohol, this is a wine for the table - to pair with everything from an alpine cheese fondue to pork tenderloin rubbed with provencal herbs. Or, a great match with your Thanksgiving turkey.

Codorniu Napa "Grand Reserve" NV Sparkling Wine, Napa Valley

2009-11-28T15:26:00.004-05:00

First released in 2005 after sever years of aging on yeasts, this non-vintage cuvee is now released annually by Artesa Winery of Carneros, under the label of Cordoniu Napa. Artesa is owned by the Cordoniu family, one of the oldest wine making families in the world and largest Cava producers in Spain. This blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is produced in the methode traditionnelle as practiced in Champagne.

The wine is a pretty pale gold color, with a fine mousse that releases aromas of gala apples, asian pear, orange zest, bread dough, ginger, and minerals. Delightfully racy acidty contributes to a bright, crisp attack. The crispness is matched by the creamy mousse, yielding a balanced mouthfeel that adds nuances of vanilla and orange marmalade to the dominant green apple and pear flavors. The dry, palate-cleansing finish smacks of apples, minerals, and gingery spice.

This is a really nice CA sparkling wine - dry and balanced, with racy acidity and great fruit. A must-have with food - how about a brie and dungeness crab dip with crostinis? Or just set out a wedge of Delice de Bourgogne with some fresh prserves and marcona almonds...in short, match that zippy acidity with your creamy apps for a real treat!

$32 at the winery is a fair (if not great) deal in the CA sparkling wine marketplace - there are a suprising number of solid CA sparkling values out there, for those who care to poke around.

Ty Caton Vineyards "Tytanium" 2006 Red Wine, Sonoma Valley

2009-11-25T19:08:00.004-05:00

This wine is a blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Petite Sirah, 29% Syrah, and 5% Merlot, all sourced from the Caton Vineyard in the foothills of the Sonoma Valley. The wine was aged for 18 months in French oak, and a total of 509 cases were bottled in April of 2008.

This wine is a deep, inky-purple color, barely fading to garnet at the edge. On the nose, it offers up potent, brooding aromas of blackberry, black currant, and plum sauce, with accents of creosote, hoisin, cocao, and toasty oak. The wine is smooth on the attack, but plush and powerful on the palate with great concentration and extract. Intense flavors of dark berry, cherry, and plum fruit coat the palate, carried on ripe tannins and decent acidity. Definitely fruit driven, but accents of melted licorice, leather, vanilla, earth and oak add plenty of interest and complexity. The depth of flavor leaves the dark fruit core reverberating on the palate for a long time on the finish.

This is another real powerhouse of a North Coast red wine, that somehow marries full-throttle intensity with elegance. Given the Sonoma Valley provenance and mixed-bag blend, you almost want this one to taste pleasantly rustic, but the pedigree of the fruit shows through in a deft display of power and finesse. Once again, my food pairing thoughts on this wine turn to red meats and hard cheeses - like a classic beef tenderloin and bearnaise.

$110 as a library wine on the winery website is a bit much, but I found this bottle at retail in the $40 range, which is a fair deal for a real killer red wine.

Collier Falls Winery "Private Reserve" 2003 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley

2009-11-24T13:26:00.006-05:00

This Reserve Zinfandel from Collier Falls is 100% Zinfandel grown in their estate vineyard in the northwest end of Dry Creek Valley. The Zin was fermented to dryness at a pretty boisterous 15.8% apv, and then aged for 15 months in mixed French and American oak barrels, 1/3 of which were new.

This wine is a nice medium-garnet color with bright ruby at the edge. Potent aromas of berry jam, white pepper, anise, and oak explode from the glass, with just a touch of heat that is largely masked by the copious fruit. The wine is smooth on entry and unfurls on the palate with boysenberry pie, ripe huckleberry, and red currant fruit accented by spice box, anise, and semi-sweet chocolate notes. Solid acidity keeps things honest and adds a hint of citrus zest to the affair, while almost imperceptible tannins leave the wine completely accesible now. The finish is of good length for Zinfandel, with sweet, briary berries up front, backed by mild spices, licorice, and toasty oak.

This wine is a pretty unabashed fruit bomb, in high-quality, Dry Creek style. Big fruit and big alcohol find a kind of hedonistic balance in this full-throttle Zin that does not feather the throttle, but keeps the fruit notes pure and fresh, without too much raisiny or Port-ish character. For those who like this style of Zin (myself included, in the right mood) this will be very enjoyable. A definite bbq wine, or match up with some aged dry CA cheeses like Dry Jack or San Joaquin Gold. Not a value wine at $28, but reasonable QPR for a tasting room purchase.

Tenuta di Sesta 2007 Rosso di Montalcino DOC

2009-11-22T01:19:00.003-05:00

Located in the southern part of the Montalcino sub-appellation of Tuscany, the Sesta estate produces this wine from 100% Sangiovese Grosso fruit, aged for 1 year in Slovonian oak barrels.

This wine is garnet at the core, with a bright ruby edge. The bouquet is full of pure Sangiovese fruit, with expressive aromas of ripe cherries, strawberries, saddle leather, tobacco, sage, and smoke. The smooth entry is followed by a medium-bodied mouthfeel marked by ripeness which is brightened by nice acidity. The sweet/tart flavors evoke cherry, strawberry, pomegranate, and red plum, with cured tobacco, tanned leather, sage, and oak providing tasteful accents. Through the long, satisfying finish, this wine continues to offer persistent and pure Sangiovese fruit - ripe, smoky cherries with tobacco and leather nuances, brightened by lovely acidity and braced by rustic but supple tannins.

This is a great Rosso di Montalcino, which really fills the bridge between Chianti and the more imposing Brunello, which is subject to a three year aging regimen before release. A young, fresh wine (but very serious) which really expresses pure Tuscan Sangiovese with no rough edges. This wine has the acidity to stand up to tomato sauce dishes, and was a great partner for paparadelle pasta in a braised short-rib ragu. The remainder of the bottle sang with some aged Gran Piave as well. For $17, this is an absolute must for those looking to move beyond Chianti Classico and delve deeper into Tuscan 'Sangio'.

Bodega Renacer "Punto Final" Reserva 2006 Malbec, Mendoza

2009-11-20T14:43:00.005-05:00

This Mendoza Malbec is 99% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc, sourced from vineyards planted over 50 years ago, and aged for 10 months in French oak. Produced by Bodegas Renacer, Alberto Antonini and Pablo Profili, winemakers.

The wine has a deep, purple core with little fade to the rim. The bouquet offers solid aromas of blueberries, dark figs, plums, and hoisin sauce, accented by violets, minerals, and toasty oak notes. The wine is plush and soft on the palate, with mild tannins and modest acidity - a very Merlot-like mouthfeel. Black cherry, blueberry, and plum fruit come to the fore in the mouth, with tobacco and mocha flavors revealing themselves and joining with the floral, mineral, and spice notes to add complexity. Creamy, toasty oak and more pronounced tanninc grip come through, adding structure to a solid, fruit-stained finish.

Sourcing from several Mendoza sub-appellations including Lujan de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, Renacer has achieved great consistency with this blend, rivalling the blockbuster 2005 in terms of the quality-to-price ratio. For $15, this is is one of the premier Argentinian Malbecs in the market. Combine the softness and accessibility of a 'New World' Merlot with the complexity and structure of Bordeaux, and add a dash of the high-altitude Argentinian mineral imprint, and you have a winning combination. It is sometimes a wonder to consider all of the overhead that goes into producing a wine of this quality, aging it in French oak, and getting it to the shelf at an American retailer - to do so for $15/bottle is a pretty good deal. Another steak wine here - grilled skirt steak with a smoky chimmichurri sauce sounds perfect to me.

Pride Mountain Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain

2009-11-20T14:40:00.004-05:00

Pride Mountain Vineyards is a stellar producer of Bordeaux varietals who's facility literally straddles the Napa/Sonoma County line high up on Spring Mountain, above St.Helena. Their 2005 Cab is 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Petit Verdot, comprised of a healthy mix of 58% Napa and 42% Sonoma fruit. The wine was aged for 18 months in 100% French oak before bottling.

The wine is a nice, deep ruby color with a bright edge. The bouquet offers brooding aromas of cassis and black cherry fruit, with accents of hoisin sauce, tobacco, chocolate and toasty oak. The wine is full-bodied and plush on entry, with great concentration and focus and plenty of structure five years off the vine. Intense varietal flavors of cassis, black cherry, blackberry, currant, and anise gain complexity from an undercurrent of chocolate and soy, with tobacco, herb and toast notes following through. The finish shows great length, with persistent pure fruit notes braced by solid but ripe tannins and clove-like French oak.

While mountain fruit is often posed as more refined and elegant than the riper expressions found on the valley floor, this 2005 from Spring Mountain is very powerful - full of deep, concentrated dark fruit flavors and tannins that are supple now, but will certainly allow for another decade of quality aging. Not that there isn't elegance and pedigree in evidence - it is the proverbial 'iron fist in a velvet glove'. Should be available in the $50 range at retail, which is not a bargain, but not unreasonable for such a potent expression of Spring Mountain terroir. A definite steak wine - the hoisin notes married with a balsamic and red wine pan sauce, and a nicely marbled hangar steak helped further soften the maturing tannins.

Balletto Vineyards "Estate" 2008 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley

2009-11-20T14:39:00.006-05:00

Baletto Vineyards is situated along Occidental Road east of Santa Rosa and just north of Sebastopol. Their estate vineyards are thus in the southern stretch of the Russian River Valley, and the cooling influence of being closer to the Pacific distinguishes the wines from this terroir from their bigger and riper counterparts further up the valley. The grapes for this Pinot are a blend of multiple clonal selections, harvested between 24-26 brix, and fermented to 13.6% abv. The wine was aged for 10 months in French oak, 30% of which was new.

The wine is a medium-garnet color with a bright edge. The nose has aromas of ripe cherry, berry, and red plum fruits. accented by damp forest floor, rosehip tea, cola, and cloves. The wine has a light and smooth mouthfeel, with a brightness derived from the cool-climate acidity. Raspberry, cherry, dried strawberry, and pomegaranate fruits find a nice balance of tart and sweet flavors, with the baking spice, damp, earth and toasty oak notes maintaining their presence. The wine doesn't achieve much layering, but remains a delicate and bright Pinot to the end - with a decent finish of sweet fruit and gentle spice, and a pose-petal note chiming in.

We bought this wine as a futures purchase based on a barrel sample several moths before bottling, and the end product was very consistent with our notes from the barrel. At the futures price of $18, this wine is a decent value, but it doesen't have the depth or complexity to warrant much more. The gentle mouthfeel and fine acidtity make this a definite choice for the table. The spice notes melded perfectly with Morroccan-spiced and slow-cooked chicken thighs.

Woop Woop Wines "The Chook" NV Sparkling Shiraz, SE Australia

2009-11-20T14:37:00.004-05:00

This fun sparkling red is made from 100% Shiraz fermented once in tank and again in the bottle in the methode traditionelle to produce a fine, frothy mousse - then finished with a dosage.

This wine is a deep ruby color, with a purple-tinged mousse. No swirling necessary, as the bubbles adequately volatilise the wine, causing aromas of raspberry, cherry, anise, and piecrust/baking spice notes to burst from the glass. The (presumably) less ripe and higher acidity Shiraz fruit used in this style really brings the red fruit notes out of the grapes. A smooth, soft and creamy mouthfeel carries flavors of bright berry and cherry fruits across the palate, with great acidity and no perceptible tannins. Finishes nice and dry, with lifted spice and licorice notes mingling with loads of sweet red fruit.

This is a well put-together entry level wine for those new to the realm of sparkling reds. Really expresses varietal and regional character - fans of Aussie Shiraz won't be able to help but like this wine. The acidity is there, but the wine is a bit soft and open-knit to pair with most entrees. However it begs for a cheeseboard of some well-selected, modrately aged cheeses. Think clothbound cheddar, lightly aged dry jack, mahon, etc. Throw in some dates or dried fruits and nuts to make for a sweet and savory sensory overload.

A solid buy for $16.

Gemtree Vineyards "Bloodstone" 2007 Shiraz/Viognier, McLaren Vale

2009-11-20T14:36:00.006-05:00

This Shiraz was made with fruit from Gemtree's own estate vineyards in the McLaren Vale appellation of South Australia. The red fruit was co-fermented with 5% Viognier to enhance the aromatics of the wine.

This Shiraz is a deep garnet color with a bright edge. It offers up a solid bouquet of violets, blackberry liquer, plums and raspberries, nuanced by cracked white pepper and spice cake. The wine shows good medium to full-body, with mild tannins, and a juicy squirt of tart acidity adding brightness. Hints of anise and chocolate reveal themselves on the palate, adding more interest to the lush berry, ripe cherry, plum, and pomegranate fruits. There is a nice contrast between the tasteful peppery spice notes and the candied floral flavors that are etched on the palate by fine tannins. A solid finish brings everything together with sweet red and blue fruits leading the way, followed by violet, pepper, and cocao/vanilla oak. The nice acidity bats cleanup.

An excellent, elegant Shiraz for $15, which delivers all the ripe forward fruit and spice you expect from the genre, but with above-average sophistication and complexity. Great as a stand-alone, but has enough acidity and reserve to pair well with boldly flavored meat dishes - I am thinking marinated tri-tip right now...

Sean Thackrey "Sirius" 2006 Petite Sirah, Mendocino County

2009-11-20T14:32:00.005-05:00

Sean Thackrey is a winemaker based out of Marin County who's small lot, ultra-boutique bottlings earn rave reviews in the wine press and a cult-like status among afficionados. I was lucky enough to get a hold of a couple bottles of this Petite Sirah made from fruit from the Eaglepoint Ranch in Mendocino County, north of Ukiah.

This Petite is an inky purple color, to the rim. The nose offers a profound and potent mixture of brooding dark fruit complexed by pine sap, creosote, camphor, incense smoke, and eucalyptus. The attack is smooth, but the wine opens up on the palate with a walloping dose of black plum, cherry, and blackberry liquer, heavily accented with exotic spices, incensce, pine, eucalyptus, and licorice. These flavors alternate in waves, and develop monumental depth, concentration, and intensity as the wine warms in the glass. There is plenty of Petite's signature tannic grip, plenty of glycerin, and solid acidity, but this is all concealed beneath voluptuous fruit and the wild sappy and spicy accents. The finish goes on and on, full of mouth-staining fruit braced by ripe tannins, with a hint of oak blending with all the other layers of flavor going on.

This wine is a real showboat of a Petite Sirah, bringing all the potential of the varietal to the table. Intoxicatingly intense brooding dark fruit, with an exotic array of smoke and spice flavors and that pervasive, sappy eucalyptus-pine presence. This wine has the structue and stuffing to go for years, maybe decades. $40 here is actually a deal for such a singular expression of Petite. We had to experience this one as a stand-alone, and now that we did, I am hard put to think of a food-pairing that can stand up to this wine's power without stepping on it's complexity and sophistication. Not for the faint-hearted, but for die-hard Pet fans, this one is not to be missed, if it can be found.

Bodegas LAN 2004 Rioja Reserva

2009-11-11T13:47:00.004-05:00

This wine is a blend of fruit from old vines in the Rioja Alta region - 80% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, and 10% Mazuelo, from Bodegas LAN, one of the largest producers in Rioja. This wine was aged for one year in mixed French and American oak, and subsequently aged for two years in bottle.

This wine has a deep purple core surrounded by garnet. The nose offers aromas of black cherries and plums, with anise and faint woodsmoke. There is a sense of bright acidity and minerality that is hard to pin down as a scent, but it is there. On the palate, the wine is smooth, balanced, and vibrant, not ponderous as some New World wines are wont to be. The wine has floral hints of roses and violets married with savory notes of saddle leather and smoke. These ineresting accents are integrated against a lively fruit background of plums, black cherry, raisin, and just a hint of white pepper. Ripe, gentle tannins that speak of bottle age lead to a good finish of plum and cherry fruit, licorice, and tasteful new oak.

This wine is a class act for $16. No, it's not a cellar-worthy, classic Rioja that gives you the full taste of the quartz-inflected llicorella soil that give the appellation its reknown. But it is a top-quality Spanish red at the price point. Poised, balanced, and elegant, its vivacious acidity and modest weight offer lots to enjoy, especially at the table. A knockout tapas wine, enjoy with paella, jamon serrano with crostini, Manchego and marinated olives, etc.

Bouchaine Vineyards "Bouche d'Or" 2006 Late-Harvest Chardonnay

2009-11-11T13:42:00.004-05:00

For those with a sweet tooth, this late harvest Carneros Chardonnay with a small percentage of Riesling blended in will fit the bill. These grapes were left on the vines into November, until botrytis or "noble rot" began to dessicatethe grapes, concentrating the sugars. Harvested with brix in the high 30s, the grapes yield a finished wine with 9.6% abv, and residual sugar at a pretty high 17%.

The wine is brassy gold in the glass, with aromas of honeyed apricots, honeysuckle, golden figs, and just a hint of petrol. The mouthfeel is syrupy and a bit cloying, with modest acidity. The flavors are predominantly honey, apricots, and figs, with a touch of parrafin or beeswax. The finish is consistent, with lots of syrupy sweetness closing on a pleasnt note of pure white grape.

This late harvest wine offers up creamy nectar-like sweetness in spades, but you can taste the quality behind the sugar. It needs to be appropriately paired with food. We paired it with a coeur a la creme, which matched sweetness with sweetness, but a better choice might be a honeyed fresh fruit tarte, or dessert blue and washed rind cheeses.

$30 at the winery - uniqueness is what you are really paying for here.

Brancott Estate Vineyards "Reserve" 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

2009-11-11T13:28:00.004-05:00

This NZ-SB is produced by Brancott Estate Vineyards, one of the oldest and now largest producers in the Marlborough region at the nothern end of New Zealand's southern island. This reserve SB is made from fruit sourced primarily from the Wairau River Valley, with some fruit from the Atawere Valley. 100% stainless steel fermentation and maturation is pretty much the rule in the NZ-SB game, with bottling under a Stelvin screw-cap to preserve the pure, fresh fruit character.

It feels strange to use the monniker 'classic' with regard to one of the relatively recent varietal benchmarks in the wine world, but the New Zealand style has established itself enough for me to say that this wine comes right out of the gate in classic NZ-SB style. The wine is a brilliant pale straw-gold color, with aromas of gooseberries, passion fruit, and citrus zest accented by lemongrass and a pervasive minerality. Undeniably racy, the wine introduces white peach and pink grapefruit flavors on the palate that enrich the gooseberry-passion fruit fusion. The underpining quartz-like minerality and vibrant acidity make for a crisp, palate-cleansing finish.

The New Zealand benchmark of racy, grassy Sauv Blancs is one that I have drifted away from recently in favor of riper and more rounded expressions from CA and Bordeaux, etc. Offerings like this one make me wonder why. When this well-executed, a Kiwi SB is a unique and world-class wine that is hard to beat in some food-pairing situations. We breaded and baked some goat cheese medallions and served with baby greens and vinaigrette, and the tang in the wine and the cheese were in perfect harmony. The raciness of the wine held it's own with the vinaigrette, and the vinegar brought out the wine's minerality, but left plenty of fruit. Followed up with broiled sea bass with beurre blanc, the wine made every bite as fresh as the first.

A no-brainer great value for $14.

Gundlach Bundschu Winery "Vadasz Vineyard" 2005 Pinot Noir

2009-11-06T13:23:00.003-05:00

Here is another non-estate vineyard wine from "GunBun". This Pinot Noir is made with fruit from the Vadasz Vineyard, a choice site planted to Dijon clones, on the western side of Sonoma Valley in the foothills of Sonoma Moutain. This wine was aged for fifteen months in new and used French oak before bottling.

The wine is a bright medium-ruby in the glass, and offers up aromas of damp earth, Satsuma plum, bing cherry, rose petals, black tea, and toast. The wine is silky and smooth on the palate, medium-bodied and layered, with very fine tannins. Good acidity brings tart red fruits like cranberry and pomegranate to the palate that did not announce themselves in the bouquet. The primary flavors of red plum and cherry carry through to a solid finish with earth, baking spices, and subtle oak.

This is a very nice CA Pinot that juxtaposes sweet, almost candied fruit notes with earthy-foresty nuances for a balanced presentation. Not exceptional for depth, length, or complexity - just solid, well-rounded, and satisfying. A definite food wine, this paired well with herb-roasted pork tenderloin, and some Petit Basque and Tomme cheeses.

$28 at the winery is on the fair side of market for Sonoma Pinot Noir nowadays. If this wine is not a "good value", suffice to say that you can definitely pay more for less.

Water Wheel "Memsie" 2006 Red Wine, Bendigo

2009-11-06T13:22:00.004-05:00

Basically a Shiraz, with 7% Cabernet Sauvignon abd 6% Malbec blended in, the "Memsie" is produced by Water Wheel Wines in the Bendigo region of Victoria province in southeastern Australia. The wine was aged for 9 months in seasoned American oak before bottling.

This red has an inky purple core surrounded by garnet in the glass, and aromas of black and blue berries, black cherries, and plums on the nose, with notes of pie crust, white pepper, and scorched earth adding interest. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with a plush but smooth mouthfeel, and ripe, gentle tannins. Gobs of sweet dark berry, cherry, plum, and currant fruit wash over the palate, with a tart dash of pomegranate acidity struggling, but just managing, to keep things in line. Pepper and allspice notes abound. The dusty tannins gain ground on the back palate, adding structure, and hints of earth and dark cocao powder bring contrast to the mouth-staining finish of candied dark fruits and oak toast.

This is an Aussie fruit bomb with a touch of class that sets it above many of its worthy peers at the $12 price point. At once, the wine scores points for hedonistically ripe and forward fruit, but also moderate mouthfeel and balance of alcohol, oak, and tannins. Definitely saturated, concentrated, and ripe, but not exhausting, this is a crowd-pleasing effort for driniking now as a stand-alone, or with barbequed meets and dry aged cheeses, etc.

Turley Wine Cellars "Old Vine" 2006 Zinfandel, California

2009-11-03T15:32:00.004-05:00

I don't have much detail on this retaurant purchase, but I will add these notes to the archive as this was my first actual taste of Helen Turley's own eponymous label wines. A prolific consultant and legendary winemaker, Hurley has attained a kind of cult status for her Zinfandels, and has helped define a popular, contemporary style of big-fruited, full-throttle Zin. This cuvee is a non-appelated CA Zin, with the vague trade term "old vines" usually applying to gnarly, head-pruned vines of a least fifty years of age.

This zin is a deep garnet, with ruby at the edge. The wine has a nose full of brooding dark fruits and peppery spices, with suprisingly Rhone-ish notes of garrigue and roast meats. With air, it opens up on the palate with more conventional Zinfandel flavors of briary boysenberry, black cherry, and red plum, with cracked pepper and gingery spices, and a persistent herbal undertone that suggests Provencal herbs and mint. This complexity and smooth texture is juxtaposed with somewhat rustic tannins that kick in on the back-palate and add some grip to the nice, brambly fruit-filled finish.

Clearly a well-made and serious wine, but with some noticeable rough edges - namely a bit of alcoholic 'heat' and mildly coarse tannins - both of which will improve with time. Ageworthiness is not really a factor that I really look for in Zinfandel, so it is hard to call this a good value at a $50+ retail. However, it is a quality wine that expresses a more complex side of the varietal than you generally find in a lot of primary fruit-focused offerings. The juicy berry fruit played nicely against the savoury flavors of a seared filet mignon with a port-balsamic reduction pan sauce.

Franciscan Estate 2007 Chardonnay, Napa Valley

2009-11-03T15:26:00.005-05:00

This 100% Chardonnay was made by the Franciscan Estate Winery in Oakville, with fruit sourced from both the Napa Valley and Carneros to the south of the valley proper. About half of this blend was fermented with wild yeast strains, and the wine was aged sur lie for 8 months in mixed new and used French and American oak barrels.

This Chardonnay is a brilliant pale gold color in the glass, with solid aromas of honeyed apples and pears, meyer lemon, brioche and an underpining of minerals. On the palate, it is medium-bodied - rich, but balanced by good fresh-fruit acidity. D'Anjou pear and apple pie flavors are brightened by citrus, and rounded by vanilla wafer and creamy oak notes. The hints of wet-stone minerality add to the sense of balance, following through on a decent finish of varietal fruits and tasteful oak toast.

This reasonably priced and readily available Chardonnay offers a solid expression of varietal and regional character. Everything you look for in a $15 Napa Chardonnay, and not much else. Scores points for tasteful oak influence, not being overripe, and the balancing acidity - pitfalls you need to watch out for in CA Chardonnays. This one is fit for the table, and went great with our no-brainer dijon chicken with spinach and brie. Would also be versatile with a cheese board - could work with triple-cream cheeses, Robiola, Tomme, Alpine cheeses like an Abbaye de Belloc or Hoch Yrbrig, even a mild blue like Humboldt Fog.

Gundlach Bundschu Winery "Vineyard 51" 2006 Merlot, Alexander Valley

2009-11-03T15:20:00.005-05:00

While the Gundlach Bundschu Winery in the Sonoma Valley focuses on wines sourced from their large, contiguous estate vineyard, they occasionally produce bottlings from select vineyard sites that catch their fancy. This 100% Merlot is sourced from a "top secret" vineyard site in the Alexander Valley. This is not only a single-vineyard Merlot - the fruit is also a single clone, #181. The fruit was fermented to dryness at 14.8% apv, and transferred to French oak barrels where it aged for 17 months before bottling.

This Merlot is an inky ruby color with a bright edge, and aromas of blueberries, plums, hickory, cloves, toast, and smoked meat on the nose. The wine has a smooth attack, medium to full-body, and a plush, silky moutfeel. Firm, broad tannins provide suprising grip for a Merlot. Intense flavors of black cherry, blueberry, and plums are generously accented by sage, cloves, cocao powder, and unique smoked meat notes. The finish is of good length, with the core, classic Merlot fruits blended with dried herbs, vanilla oak, and persistent grip.

An interesting Merlot - typical varietal fruit (cherry, blueberry, plum) matched with almost Rhone-ish hickory and meat notes and suprising, Cab-like tannic grip. The structure suggests that this is a definite candidate for more bottle aging - the wine shows promise now, but will probably show better in a couple more years. As is, pairing the Merlot with a "black-and-blue" NY steak with a balsamic drizzle absorbed some of the tannins and made for a fine pairing.

$30 at the winery is not a great value, but a 30% off deal definitely improved the QPR.

Bindi Winegrowers "Bundaleer" 2004 Shiraz, Heathcoate

2009-11-03T15:17:00.005-05:00

This 100% Shiraz hails from the Heathcoate region of Victoria, from Bindi Winegrowers, about 50km north of Melbourne. While Bindi is gaining a reputation for serious estate grown Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this value-priced Shiraz is sourced from various sites in Heathcoate, and named for the larger grazing farm of which the Bindi Vineyard is a part.

This wine is deep garnet with an inky core. The bouquet offers potent and pure aromas of macerated roses and violets, with sweet cherries, strawberries, blackberry, eucalyptus, and a hint of white pepper. The wine has a smooth attack and a plush, but not burly, mouthfeel - very refined and smooth for a Shiraz at this price point. Candied cherry and mixed berry fruits are focused, concentrated, and very pure, with a floral pastille quality to the fine tannins. Accents of eucalyptus, scorched earth, peppery spices, and iron filings add a touch of interest and elegance. The finish is fruit-focused and long, with sweet fruit clinging to the cheeks. Tannins are gentle and ripe, and the oak influenece is restrained throughout - more of a presence in the background than a component of the flavor profile.

For $15, this wine is a score. It offers all of the juicy forward fruit of any other top-flight Aussie Shiraz at this price point, but classes the act up with a silky, layered mouthfeel, and great purity of fruit. Satisfies the craving for a big Shiraz, but does so without too much alcohol (13.5%), and with tasteful secondary notes and touches of oak. I tend to enjoy Shiraz as a stand-alone, but this wine has enough restraint and balance to pair nicely with aged cheddar and dry jack, pulled pork, or other smoky barbequed meats.

Ferari-Carano Winery 2007 Fior di Moscato

2009-11-03T15:16:00.004-05:00

This sweet Moscato from the Ferrari-Carano Winery in the Dry Creek Valley is made from a pretty even mix of Muscat Canelli and Muscat Giallo fruit from the Russian River Valley. The fruit is fermented to a low apv%, with residual sugar at just under 5%. The wine is developed in 100% stainless steel before bottling.

This bright pink-gold wine has a perfumed nose of honeysuckle, lilac, and acacia blossoms, with lychee and peach aromas and hints of mineral. It has a soft attack and delicate mouthfeel, with mouth-coating sweetness balanced by enough acidity to keep things in line. Persistent floral notes accent flavors of lychee, strawberry, and peaches in vanilla-cream. The creamy mouthfeel and sweet fruit carry through a solid finish which closes with palate cleansing acidity marked by hints of wet stones.

An interesting pesentation of a sweet Moscato, with moderate sweetness braced by nice fresh-fruit acidity and minerality. Not a complex style, but this delicate wine was great with a shortcake topped with whipped cream and fresh strawberries. Would also be a nice apertif or partner for mild, fresh cheeses and fruits.

Burgans 2007 Albarino, Rias Baixas

2009-11-03T15:14:00.006-05:00

This Albarino from the Rais Baixas appellation in northwestern Spain is produced for export by Bodegas Martin Codax, an early champion of the AOC designation for the region. Another great value in the portfolio of Eric Solomon's European Cellars import co. The wine is fermented and matured in 100% stainless steel with no malolactic fermentation, to preserve the pure fruit character.

The wine is a brilliant, very pale straw-gold in the glass, with an expressive bouquet of spring flowers, Meyer lemon oil, papaya, melon rind, and a saline minerality that speaks of the maritime climate of the region. The wine is smooth on attack, with a rich, viscous mouthfeel that offers a waxy/lanolin background for the fruit. The fruit comes in the guise of generous lemon rind, white peach, and melon flavors, with tropical papaya, green banana, and citrus notes, and hints of fresh mint leaf, iodine, and minerals. Great acidity and suprising length for the price point lead to a long, dry and crisp finish that is a great palate cleanser. At once both round and racy, ripe and dry.

Along with Viognier and Pinot Gris, Albarino has become the other go-to varietal when I am looking for the antidote to overly round and buttery Chardonnays. This bottling is a perfect example of why. At $12, it offers quality and complexity beyond its price point, and great juxtaposition between open-knit and waxy vs. crisp and racy qualities. Throw in the saline and mineral aspects, and you have all the makings of a great value. This is a wine for shellfish or flaky white fish entrees, with the acidity to cleanse the palate of buttery preparations so that each bite is like the first.

Artesa Winery 2005 Pinot Noir Reserve, Carneros

2009-11-03T15:13:00.004-05:00

Artesa is a beautifully situated destination winery south of the town of Napa. Their hilltop location in Carneros, with breathtaking views of rolling hills, the bay, and even the city on a clear day, find me taking vistors there often. This gives me the opportunity to regularly taste through their current releases, and my general opinion is that they produce a diverse lineup of enjoyable, if not exceptional wines. On occasion, one bottling will standout from the lineup and announce itself as something special. That said...

This Reserve Pinot Noir is sourced from Artesa's estate vineyards in Carneros, and was aged for approximately eight months in French oak, 70% of which was new.

This wine is a bright ruby color in the glass, with a garnet core. It has a perfumed nose of rose petals, ripe plum and cherry fruit, and accents of rosehip and black tea, forest floor, cola and other exotic spices. The attack is smooth and the mothfeel is plush, layered, and exceedingly silky. Multi-tiered flavors of sweet cherry, damson plum, cassis, tea, cola spices, and saffron wash over the palate, carried on fine-veined tannins. The balance and structure are elegant and impeccable - great acidity and tannin profile, while remaining entirely feminine and ephemeral, as good Pinot should. The finish sings and echoes for some time, with plum and cherry fruit touched by baking spices lingering on the cheeks, finishing clean and dry.

In my experience, this is a superlative vintage of the Reserve Pinot bottling - a truly outstanding expression of Carneros Pinot Noir. No Red Burgundy here - this wine offers abundantly sweet CA fruit in an elegant, layered, and silky presentation that really surprised me. This could still age for several years, but there is no reason to sacrifice any of this delicious fruit, for this wine is at its peak right now. Delicious with a puff pastry tarte of ham, gruyere, and carmelized onion - but the pairing possibilties here are as broad as one could imagine. $40 at the winery, but I have seen it as low as $20 at retail, which is an absolute steal for top-notch Carneros Pinot like this.

Heitz Cellars "Ink Grade" NV Port, Napa Valley

2009-10-25T15:29:00.004-04:00

This ruby "Port" is produced by the legendary Heitz Cellars in Rutherford, with fruit from their Ink Grade Vineyard on the Mayacamas hillsides on the west side of the Napa Valley. This vineyard was planted to indigenous Douro Valley varietals in 1990, and the present blend combines Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Sauzao, Tinta Cao, Tinta Bairrada, Tinta Madeira, Tinta Amarela and Bastardo wines from the 2004, 2005, and 2006 vintages. The blend is fortified with distilled grape spirits to a moderate 18% apv.

In the glass, there is no question where this opaque purple wine gets the designation of "Ink Grade". Liquer-ish aromas of kirsch, macerated berries, and plums waft from the glass, with brown and baking spice notes carried on a harmonious wave of sweetness that keeps from being cloying. In the mouth, the sweetness is once again matched by the rich dark fruit and spice character, and the wine throws little in the way of alcoholic "heat". This Port has a rich, vinuous mouthfeel, and ripe tannins that give a bit of "vintage character". The finish is very nice -balanced and long, with lots of concentrated fruit and baking spice notes, and lingering sweetness.

This is a very nice domestic "Port" that avoids the pitfalls of being syrupy, boozy, or cloying. While sweetness and spirits are present, and dictate the appropriate pairings, your tatebuds are never in doubt that they are drinking wine here, and not liquer. Particularly noteworthy for the use of the indigenous Douro varietals, which most CA "Ports" do not. A fair deal for $30 at the winery, look for lower price points at discount retail.

The classic combos of ripe blue cheeses or farmhouse cheddar would work great with this wine, as would a flourless dark chocolate cake with raspberry ganache, molten chocolate lava cake, etc...

Frei Brothers Winery 2008 Reserve Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley

2009-10-25T15:27:00.002-04:00

This 'Reserve' 100% Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel is produced by Frei Brothers Winery of Healdsburg, CA - an E&J Gallo owned enterprise. The readily available bottling offers decent authenticity and value at the $16 price point.

The wine is a bright medium-garnet in the glass, with strong aromas of briary black, boysen, and cranberries, red currants, anise, plenty of pepper, and a decent dose of oak. It is tart and juicy on the palate, with decent acidity and ripe, mild tannins. Generous brambly berry and currant fruit is richly accented by peppery spices, licorice, chocolate, earth, and oak. The oak influence builds on the back palate, but doesn't step over the line as it is paced by the copious fruit. The finish is of moderate length, but delivers a nice squirt of juicy forest fruit braced by tart acidity, pepper, and toasty oak.

This is a solid, 'classic', CA Zin, with lots of tart, juicy fruit and pepper flavors, and no "heat" from too much alcohol. Nothing extraordinary here - but, at a price point where things can go either way, this bottling scores points for correctness and quality. This would go great with bbq or pulled pork, and the cranberry notes would also shine with the main plate at a Thanksgiving dinner. There are lots of good values in the Zin market nowadays, and you can step up in terms of complexity by moving to the $20+ range. But, in the teens, this Frei Brothers Reserve is a very solid option.

Two Angels 2006 Petite Sirah, High Valley

2009-10-25T15:25:00.003-04:00

The vineyards of the High Valley AVA overlook Clear Lake up in CA's Lake County. Fruit for this 100% Petite Sirah was sourced from the Shannon Ridge Vineyard at the eastern edge of the High Valley. The must went through a cold-soak before a long, cool fermentation. The wine was then aged for ten months in a combination of 30% new French oak and 70% used French and American oak.

This wine is a dark garnet color, with little fade. The nose offers up savoury aromas of stewed berries and plums, accented by roasted meats, anise, tamarind, cocao, and white pepper. It comes across on the palate as a rustic, burly mouthful of wine - classic CA Petite. Big flavors of brambly dark berries and plums, mocha espresso, game, anise, spices, and earth are braced by modest acidity and rich, chewy tannins. Flavors are consistent across the palate, and the finish is big and solid, with rich dark fruit, coffee, and gamey-earthy notes framed by toasty oak and grippy tannins.

This is a decent, if conventional, Petite Sirah at the $18 price point. A rustic workhorse of a wine, it is the classic CA Pet blueprint of big, extracted color, fruit, and tannins that produces such polar 'love-it-or-hate-it' reactions from wine lovers. I, to be different, like it - whereas I love those Petites that go outside the box and explore the more complex and exotic potential that the varietal can realize. Still, this is a nice wine at a good price, and should be paired up with braised ribs or roasted meat dishes that compliment those notes - or a nice aged Dry Jack with cocao and olive notes.

Bodega Monteviejo "Festivo" 2004 Malbec, Mendoza

2009-10-25T15:24:00.002-04:00

Bodega Monteviejo is an Argentinian project of Catherine Pere-Verge, owner of Pomerol's Ch. Le-Gay. Legendary winemaker Michel Rolland consults for this estate who's property lies at the foot of the Andes to the south of the city of Mendoza. This 100% Malbec is aged for 6 months in 100% new French oak.

This Malbec is a deeply extracted purple color - almost looks "silky" (if that were possible). Aromas of juicy blueberry and blackberry fruit waft from the glass, accented by smoke and chalky minerals. The wine is plush and very open-knit in the mouth, with a soft, supple mouthfeel that has a pleasantly powdery/silty quality (not sediment). Blueberry fruit leads the charge, backed by dark cherry and plum fruit, complexed by charcoal, smoke, chocolate, and spice box notes. The chalky minerality and powdery fruit pastille join with mild tannins to coat the palate for a fruit-stained finish of decent length.

Another good Argentinian value for $12, This is an easy-drinking, 'classic' Mendoza Malbec, with a very Merlot-like flavor profile and soft, supple mouthfeel. The juicy blueberry fruit, creosote, and chalky minerals deliver the difference that is the signature of Mendoza terroir. A this point, this 2004 is not getting any better in the bottle, so drink now to get the most of that sweet Malbec fruit. A no-brainer to pair with meats off the grill, or by any other dry heat cooking method that yields a nice sear.

Bodega Elvira Calle "Ca de Calle Gran Reserva" 2007 Red Wine, Mendoza

2009-10-25T15:22:00.007-04:00

This interesting blend is comprised of Malbec, Bonarda (Charbono), Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot - produced at Bodega Elvira Calle, a small-lot, gravity-flow wine studio in Lujan de Cuyo, in the heart of Argentina's Mendoza wine region. The wine is aged for twelve months in new and used French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.

This wine has an opaque purple core surrounded by deep crimson. The boquet offers up potent aromas of macerated red and black berry fruits, with smoky plum and toast notes backed by gravelly minerality. The wine is plush, open, and accesible on the palate, with an extremely silky mouthfeel highlighted by soft, pure fruit. Generous black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, and plum flavors coat the palate, carried by balancing acidity and persistent minerality. Overtones of mixed spices, bittersweet chocolate, and toasty oak add plenty of interest. Mild and fine-grained tannins are well concealed by the voluptuous fruit, rounding out the elegant balance and structure that keeps the wine poised through a long, juicy, and complex finish.

This is a stellar performance at the <$15 price point. Very nice to see a blend from Mendoza that showcases the variety of quality winemaking going on there. I love the high-altitude Malbec that put the region on the map, but this wine earns extra points for bringing something different to the table. The wine is infectiously juicy, but with poise and balance that is a nod to Old World winemaking and blending traditions. Open-knit and elegant is a winning combination here in a wine that is drinking superbly right now.

Sequoia Grove Vineyards 2007 Chardonnay, Carneros

2009-10-25T15:21:00.005-04:00

This Chardonnay is produced by the Sequoia Grove Winery in Rutherford, with grapes from several reknowned vineyard sites in the Carneros AVA south of Napa. The grapes were innoculated with Burgundy yeast strains, fermented in stainless steel tanks, and finished in 100% French oak. While the wine was not put through malolactic fermentation, it did receive bi-monthly battonage as it aged 'sur lie' for nine months.

This Chardonnay is a brilliant pale gold color, with aromas of wet stones, pear, lemon oil, marzipan, and a whiff of fresh mown hay. The attack is smooth and unfurls to a beautiful mouthfeel with light, crisp balance played against the richness derived from lees aging. Ripe, round fruit notes of pears and apples are accented by citrus blossom, almonds, and faint hints of nutmeg and ginger. Bracing acidity and unerpining minerality rounds out a complete package, leading to a generous finish of rich pear and white grape fruit with tingling minerality that lingers.

As advertised by the winery, this is a California Chardonnay with a Burgundian twist. The ripe fruit speaks of CA sunshine, while the finesse of the lees aging with tasteful oak and no malolactic conversion provides sublety and complexity - qualities inherent in good Chardonnay fruit, but qualities that many CA winemakers are wont to step on in the cellar in pursuit of stylistic convention. This wine is like a very ripe Corton-Charlemagne.

$28 at the winery, which means it can be found for less at discount retail - no complaints here. We drank this bottle on a secluded beach, with a good brie, pear, and some almonds. The snacks really brought complimentary notes out of the wine - highly recommended!

Elyse Winery 2008 Rose

2009-10-19T15:49:00.005-04:00

As the C'Est si Bon is their tribute to Cotes-du-Rhone and Chatteauneuf, so Elyse Winery's Rose wine is a nod to the great pink wines of Tavel and Bandol in the Southern Rhone. A saignee of blushed juice from their red Rhone blends, this rose is fermented to dryness and aged for 5 months in neutral French oak barrels.

Bottled under a Stelvin closure to preserve the fresh fruit, this wine is a lovely salmon-pink color. Aromas of strawberries, red cherry, nectarine, rhubarb, and wet stones fill the glass. The wine is light, dry and minerally on the palate, with refreshing flavors of red cherry, berry and stone fruits touched with hints of grass and rhubarb. Fresh fruit acidity and the wet-stones minerality keep things dry and clean through a nice, brief-but-palate-cleansing finish.

This is a nice, Old-World style dry rose with tasteful sweet fruit grounded by green accents and dry minerality. Definitely a food wine - would go great with aged fresh cheeses like a Banon, St-Domnin, or Valencay. It's versatility makes it a great 'fixer' for those in-between foods that don't quite call for white or red. We enjoyed this bottle with cavatappi tossed with broth, oil, garlic, sundried tomatoes and piquant sausage.

A pleasing value from a Napa tasting room for only $15.

Louis M. Martini Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County

2009-10-19T15:48:00.003-04:00

This is a pretty ubiquitous and readily available bottle of wine, with total case production of 140,000, but I have to add it to the archive for the consistent combination of quality and value you can count on from this cuvee vintage after vintage. This Cabernet is made from a blend of fruit from several Sonoma County appellations.

The wine is a deep garnet color, with a classic CA Cabernet nose of black cherry, currant, earthy cocao, mint, and cedar. The medium to full-bodied wine wine is concentrated, but with beautiful balance, suprising complexity, and a silky texture. Ripe and juicy black cherry and currant fruit leads the charge, generously accented by anise, earth, chocolate, menthol-eucalyptus, and cedar notes. Sweet, fine-grained tannins coat the palate, etching the flavors for a long and fruit-focused finish, with a reserved and tasteful dash of toasty oak.

This is straight-down-the-middle, classic and quality California Cabernet. Nothing jaw-dropping here, just the epitome of correct, quality Cab. 2006 is possibly a superlative vintage for the Louis Martini Sonoma County Cab, so I am happy to add it to the archive. Accessible, but has the structure to last for several years, and would probably improve with time. This is that no-brainer, go-to bottle when you need Cabernet and don't want to break the bank (or even dent it). A great BBQ wine, or think steak - broiled NY Strip or Ribeye, with craked peppercorns and some bistro butter...mmm...

Feraud-Brunel 2006 Cotes du Rhone Villages

2009-10-19T15:47:00.004-04:00

This classic Cotes-du-Rhone Village is produced by a negociant enterprise which is a joint venture between Laurence Feraud from Domaine du Pegau, and André Brunel from Les Cailloux - two renowned producers of Chateauneuf du Pape. The wine is 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, and is aged entirely in stainless steel tanks and bottled unfined and unfiltered.

The wine is a medium-garnet color, with a bright ruby edge, and a perfumed bouquet of raspberry ganache, red currant, spice cake, and grilled herbs. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, with a silky texture and fine tannins. Bright flavors of crushed raspberry, currant, and strawberry are wound around a solid core of acidity, with undertones of garrigue, pepper, and lavender. The tannins build incrementally as you drink the wine, leading to a pleasingly long and chewy finish with lots of fruit and a bit of chalky minerality.

This is an above average Cotes-du-Rhone for $13, which is saying a lot - a standout in a value-rich genre. The wine combines a ripe vintage and rustic character with the finesse and elegance of traditional winemaking methods of the highest order. A very nice expression of pure Grenache fruit and Rhone terroir. Very food friendly stuff, would be a great pairing for hearty slow-cooked fare like a cassoulet or provencal stew, or versatile with a mixed cheeseboard. Highly recommendable.

Elyse Winery "C'est Si Bon" 2005 Red Wine, Sierra Foothills

2009-10-19T15:45:00.008-04:00

The Elyse Winery of Napa Valley's Oak Knoll District sources the fruit for this Rhone-style red from the Naggiar Vineyard in the Grass Valley, Sierra Foothills. The wine is a blend of 50% Grenache, 22% Mourvedre, 19% Syrah, 4% Cinsault, 4% Counoise and 1% Viognier, aged for 22 months in French oak puncheons, 20% of which were new.

This wine is a deep ruby/purple color, with a potent nose full of red currants, cherries, dried strawberries, and plums, with leather, white pepper, and hints of herbs like rosemary, sage, and creamy dill. The wine opens up with a full-bodied but silky/creamy mouthfeel, and follows through with a very nice blending of ripe, forward California fruit and authentic Rhone-ish finesse. Juicy fruit flavors of currants, plums, strawberries, and raspberries saturate the palate, with a touch of sweetness, while subtle nuances of leather, earth, herbs, and minerality lurk beneath, and keep things serious. Barely perceptible oak and sweet tannins creep into the back palate and lead to a nice finish full of red fruits and garrigue.

This a super-fun wine, exactly what I would expect from a well-executed CA Cotes-du-Rhone. Sweet, ripe fruit meets interesting secondary notes here, and a delightful rusticity provides the finishing touches to a wine that is easy to drink, yet serious enough to give pause. The irony is that this seems to be the direction that many actual southern Rhone producers have been heading in in recent years, so Elyse is right at the edge of the curve. A pleasure with braised pork with provencal herbs, but would also drink well all on its own.

$28 at the winery does not make it price-competitive in the value-rich Cotes-du-Rhone marketplace, but if you are looking to see how well a California winery can do the Rhone blend thing, this one is definitely worth checking out.

Artesa Winery "Limited Release" 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley

2009-10-19T15:45:00.004-04:00

Artesa sources the fruit for this limited release Sauvignon Blanc from the Napa Valley, north of their hilltop estatae winery overlooking the San Pablo Bay in the Carneros AVA. The ripe Napa Sauvignon Blanc fruit is fermented in stainless steel, 80% is aged in steel, while 20% spends 6 months in French oak to impart some richness and a touch of vanilla to the wine.

This wine is straw-gold in the glass, with generous aromas of tropical citrus and pineapple, with hints of waxy melon and fresh herbs. The attack is smooth, with great acidity riding on the viscous, waxy mouthfeel, with a touch of lees-ey richness. This SB is very tropical and complex, with flavors ranging through grapefruit, pineapple, guava, apricot, mango, melon, and pear as it warms in the glass. This fruit parade is touched with hints of nuts and minerals as it heads into a long and bone dry finish.

Out of a long list of solid, serviceable wines, this may be the standout cuvee in the Artesa portfolio for me. One of the best California Sauv Blancs I have had, perhaps second only to Merry Edwards' iconic bottling, to my palate. Definitely not in the lean-racy or New Zealand grassy-gooseberry style, this one is all tropical fruit with lots of stuffing and richness from the barrel aging and fresh-fruit ripeness. However, there is solid acidity and balance that keeps it aligned with the varietal's affinity for food pairing. A wonderful summer wine that cozied up nicely to some Chilean Sea Bass and green beans drizzled with beurre blanc.

$24 at the winery, and worth it.

Paradise Ridge Winery 2004 Sparkling Shiraz, Russian River Valley

2009-10-19T15:44:00.003-04:00

Now here is a fun and different wine, especially for California. All of the other sparkling Shiraz I have tried have been of Australian provenance - in fact, I can think of only a couple other CA wineries (Geyser Peak, Wattle Creek) that are dabbling in this style. There is not much in the way of information available about this wine, but my assumption is that that the winemaking follows convention for dry red sparklers. 100% Russian River 'Shiraz' is macerated on the skins and fermented to dryness, then bottled with some additional yeast and sugar to promote secondary fermentation in the bottle. After a couple years of cellaring sur lie, the bottles are riddled and disgorged, a dosage is added, and voila!

The wine is a deep purple hue in the glass, with the fine bubbles characteristic of the methode traditionelle rising to a thin mousse on the surface. No swirling necessary, as the carbonation provides plenty of aromas of blackberry and blueberry pie, with hints of cola spice, bacon, and a bit of earth. The medium-bodied wine has a creamy mouthfeel, with good acidity (though much less racy than white sparklers), and mild tannins. Bold flavors of crushed black and blue berries and red plums mingle with cola, licorice, and yeasty brioche notes. The fine bubbles really make these flavors pop on the palate. The finish is long, and offers lots of sweet fruit touched with oak.

This is a high-quality rendition of an Aussie standard that is a rarity stateside. Great Shiraz fruit combined with sparkling winemaking of finesse and taste. $37 at the winery is not cheap, but I'll argue that this wine's uniqueness is woth the splurge.

The fizz tones down the brawn of a full-bodied Shiraz to make for a food-friendly wine. While we enjoyed this wine as a stand-alone, I could see this wine being a hit with Thanksgiving dinner, versatile with a mixed cheeseboard, or a good match for dark chocolate-based desserts.

Durigutti 2007 Malbec, Mendoza

2009-10-11T12:02:00.003-04:00

This find is one of those happy instances when I am glad I am a wine geek - seeing a non-descript black labeled bottle on a shelf and having the name "Durigutti" jump out at me. Hector Durigutti is a famed Argentinian oenologist, and consulting winemaker on one of my all-time favorite Malbecs, Bodegas Renacer's "Punto Final". I just had to give this eponymous offering a try. The wine is 100% Malbec, sourced from a number of vineyards in the Mendoza region, each noted for particular varietal character.

This Malbec has a deep purple core, with garnet at the edge. The aromatic nose announces this wine wine as a Malbec with a Merlot-like profile - violets, blackberries, plums, and black currant fruit, with accents of mocha espresso, toasty oak, charcoal, and minerals. It has a smooth attack and medium to full-bodied mouthfeel. Ripe and forward flavors of blackberries, black cherries, and currant are brightened by decent acidity and mild, fine tannins. Plenty of toasty oak influence gains interest from smoke and violet-floral pastille notes, and persistent coffee and chocolate accents. Finishes with good length to the ripe fruit flavors, with oak toast and hints of graphite.

This is top-notch Malbec at the $13 price point, could easily pass for a $20-or-more wine. For a pittance, this wine delivers not only great varietal expression, but plenty of finesse, structure, and complexity. Forward and easy drinking, but a wine of unmistakeable quality. For a pairing with local flair, we matched this one with chorizo empanadas, and some faldo with chimmichurri sauces.

Concha Y Toro "Marques de Casa Concha" 2005 Merlot

2009-09-29T17:14:00.003-04:00

This wine is mostly Merlot, with a small percentage of Carmenere blended in, from select lots sourced from Concha y Toro's estate vineyards in the Peumo region of central Chile. The wine was aged for about sixteen months in a combination of French and American oak before bottling.

This is a deep ruby Merlot, with hints of crimson at the edge. The nose is full of classic Merlot aromas of black cherries, raspberries, and plums, with accents of cedar, cola, and cloves. It is soft and supple on the attack, with a plush mouthfeel braced by suprisingly firm tannins for a Merlot. The flavors of black cherry liquer, mixed berries and plums have great intensity and length, and are generously accented by cocao powder, cedar, and smoky oak, with an underpining minerality. The finish is long and mouth-coating, with plummy Merlot fruit and tasteful oak carried on dusty tannins.

This is a solid Chilean value for around $18. A fine expression of 'New World' Merlot character, with suprising stuffing and structure that will enable the wine to improve with several more years in the bottle. No underripe or green notes and no rough edges here - proof that Chile is producing rich and elegant wines, at bargain price points. Those expecting all softness from a Merlot may be suprised by the tannins here at this point in the wine's development. Prime rib, strip steak, or tri-tip will give those tannins something to chew on, as will dry, aged cheeses like Fiscalini Farms' San Joaquin Gold - a great pairing!

Rosenblum Cellars "Heritage Clones" 2006 Petite Sirah

2009-09-29T11:56:00.006-04:00

This vintage of the Heritage Clones Petite Sirah was sourced from several vineyards near the foot of Mt. Diablo in the San Francisco Bay appellation. The vines were between 80 and 100 years old. Selections from each vineyard were fermented individually and aged in mixed French and American oak before being blended. The final blend was aged again before bottling, spending a total of about 18 months in barrel.

This wine is a deep purple color, almost black at the core, with little fade. The bouquet is potent and brooding, with aromas of crushed violets, espresso roast, blackberry pie, cream, orange rind, and a hint of birch bark. It has a robust but smooth attack, and unfurls its characteristically burly and full body on the palate. This vintage combines classic Petite Sirah character with more exotic and complex aspects of the grape's potential. The big, liquerish plum and blackberry flavors are there, along with firm, ripe tannins and good acidity. What is also there are layers of roast coffee and creamy orange zest that mingle and evolve in a fascinating blend. Interesting hints of Asian and baking spices add further complexity. The finish is long and mouth staining, adding hints of bitter chocolate and oak to the lingering coffee and orange cream-tinged black fruits.

For around $16, this is one hell of a wine, one of my best QPR finds in recent memory. Not for delicate palates, this full-bodied Pet will thrill fans of the varietal with its winning combo of mainstream varietal autheticity and exotic complexity. Many a good, convetional, Petite Sirah focuses on the concentrated dark fruits and big tannins, and doesn't realize the potential depth and complexity of the varietal. This '06 scores on both counts. Don't get me wrong, you won't mistake this for a $40 wine, but I think I can safely say that this is the best Pet you'll find at this price point. I enjoyed it as a stand-alone, but it was also splendid with a cocao crusted tenderloin steak.

Cameron Hughes Wines "Lot 58" 2006 Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County

2009-09-24T23:49:00.002-04:00

Another look at the Cam Hughes portfolio -this "Lot Series" wine being a Chardonnay sourced from a super-premium producer located in the Arroyo Seco area of Santa Barbara County. This Chardonnay was not put through malo-lactic fermentation and, together with a tasteful oak regimen, focuses on pure fruit and food-friendly natural acidity.

The wine is a bright gold hue with aromas of citrus blossoms, green apples, pears, and melon. It is smooth and medium-bodied, with a flavor profile that finds a nice middle ground between tropical fruit-ripeness and a cooler climate tart fruit influence. Hints of pineapple, starfruit, and tropical citrus are braced by solid acidity and hints of stone fruits, green apples, and pears. There is a bit of waxy-lanolin character and hints of oak on the back palate and finish, but most of the richness is derived from fruit here. The finish is of moderate length, with the dominant fruit notes lingering.

All in all, a decent value for $12. Not a "wow" wine, but this is a quality Chardonnay that is not too stepped-on by the old malo-and-oak treatment. The nice acidity made it a great partner for broiled halibut drizzled with compund butter and lemon. A solid weeknight sipper that marries both Burgundian and more Californian, tropical fruit character in a pretty harmonious balance.

Winery Visit: A Day on Napa's "Main Drag"

2009-09-24T16:28:00.005-04:00

If you've never been, or if it's been a while, every now and then you just have to get out to Highway 29 in the Napa Valley - if only for the spectacle of the whole thing. The crowds, the limos, the signage, and all the name brand wineries side-by-side-by-side is just something to see. On a September Saturday, in the middle of the busy harvest season, we mustered up the courage to brave the traffic and headed up 29 from Napa to St. Helena. We foud a real mixed bag of wines, hospitality, and atmosphere, but all-in-all we had a great time.

The vines were heavily laden with ripening Cabernet grapes as we headed out of Napa into the Oak Knoll district, on the way to a smaller, family owned winery called Elyse, which is just off of 29 on Hoffman avenue. Elyse accepts visitors by appointment only, but a call en route was sufficient advance notice for them to expect our party of three.

Elyse is a small family winery winery with a total production of just 9,000 cases. The small, rustic but clean tasting room has a feel of country charm. The room was empty when we arrived, though we were joined by a group from Cuvaison winery shortly after we got there. The complimentary tasting was led by a very enthusiastic server who was well-versed in the wines he was pouring. Elyse makes two labels, their excellent Elyse Winery wines, and the top-tier label, Jacob Franklin. They make a wide range of great wines, including some burly Cabs and Zins, but the wines that impressed me most were their Rhone varietals - from a white blend of Marsanne, Rousanne, and Viognier called "L'Ingenue", to a Tavel-styled dry Rose, to to the Cotes-du-Rhone blend called "C'est Si Bon". There was also excellent varietal Syrah and Grenache. All of these wines did a great job of marrying CA ripeness with real Rhone-ish character and finesse. A highly recommendable visit for serious wine folk, and an excellent example of how different the atmosphere is only a half-mile off of 29.

We followed Elyse up with a visit to the historic Heitz Cellars in St Helena. Joe Heitz worked under Napa legend Andre Tchelitscheff before opening this winery back in 1961. Their "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet introduced the concept of vieyard-designate wine to Napa back in 1970, and remains one of the valley's iconic cuvees. Heitz still offers visitors perhaps the only complimentary tasting right on 29 to this day. The tasting room is a small mountain cabin down ashort driveway from the highway. There is no tasting bar, rather a large, low table covered in placecards with extensive information and accolades about the wines. The room was fairly crowded with a mixed crowd of wine tourists, and remained so the whole time we were there. Service was curt and abrupt - "This is our Chardonnay...this is our Cabernet...This is our Port", and the server did not seem to be that excited about his job. The wines were underwhelming (Martha's Vineyard was not poured), though the "Ink Grade" Port, a blend of the major Douro Valley varietals, was quite nice. A historic, but not particularly memorable visit - though the view of the flats from the back deck is quite impressive.

Next we went just down the road to Sequoia Grove, another redwood cabin nestled in (you guessed it), a grove of Sequoias just off of the highway. The small, lodge-style tasting room was fairly crowded when we arrived, but there was room at the bar for three, and a very knowledgeable server accomodated us just fine, moving from party to party but somehow not neglecting anyone. We felt like we were getting a private tasting, with comparative tastings of two different vintages of a single vineyard Syrah, a chocolate-sauce pairing, and an attempt to stump me with some blind tastings - which I am proud to say I did quite well with (knowledge of their reputation for top-notch Cabs didn't hurt). That reputation was upheld on this day, as the full-bodied Chardonnay, meaty Syrahs, and fine Cabs had us all humming "mmmm...". Especially memorable was the select 2005 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet, a stunning study in elegance and power. Definitely a fun and informative visit.

The final winery of the day is a relative newcomer to the Valley, and one I knew very little about - Alpha Omega. This winery is also just east of the highway in St Helena, and they have clearly invested some capital in their modern visito center, with a brand new, spacious tasting bar, and lovely fountains in the outdoor seating area right out on the flats. The room was loud and busy towards the end of the day, with some visitors clearly pushing the boundaries of "responsible tasting". Our host served us with professionalism and as much personal attention as she could though, leading us through samples of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet, and a Meritage. The wines were good, but price-wise they are definitely at the upper-end of the range for the quality. Then she busted out the big guns. First, a pour from the bottle of the 2006 innaugural vintage of their flagship proprietary blend called "Era" - a big, blockbuster red blend that offers all the ripe intensity and length (at least a minute!) that you better get from a $160 bottle of wine. Then she took us back to the barrel room for a barrel sample of the 2007 Era, which was a little more reserved than the '06 at this point, but had lots of intensity, complexity, and layers, and may eclipse the '06 with plenty of time left in the barrel. An interesting visit, though you definitely pay the Napa "cache premium" here, and it can be a loud and busy visit late in the day or on a weekend.

Our palates buzzing from a barrage of big Napa reds, we headed south for some fall-off-the-bone ribs at the Rutherford Grill. Sitting outside on abeautiful evening with the Mayacamas in the background, we had to admit that despite the crowds, it was a fun day. I think the important thing to keep in mind when braving the 'main drag' in Napa is that you go there as much for sociological, and even anthropological, purposes as for wine. It is a crazy place to people watch. Nothern CA wine coutry has as many layers and as much depth as a glass of great wine, and highway 29 in Napa is the surface - maybe a little ripe and forward, with some heat up-front... A little rough around the edges, though posturing the peak of elegance and sophistication. But definitely a must-see, especially for first-timers to wine country.

Some points to remember: 1) "off-the beaten path" is as little as a half mile off the highway, 2) genuine interest and enthusiasm will get you more comps and attention than any kind of pretence, 3) there are some world class wines and diamonds in the rough mixed in with all the glitz and glam, and 4) always turn right - as much as possible!

Winery Visit: Del Dotto Winery and Caves, Napa

2009-09-24T16:27:00.004-04:00

Del Dotto Winery and Caves is actually now two destination locations in the Napa Valley - the 125 year-old historic winery and hand-dug caves off Atlas Peak Road to the east of the town of Napa, and the new and luxurious Estate Winery and Caves in St.Helena. Not big fans of the glitzy side of Napa, we headed for the old winery.

The historic winery and caves is a bit off the beaten path east of Napa near the south end of the Silverado Trail, and we actually drove past the nondescipt flagstone building with just a very small sign for "Del Dotto Winery & Caves". We had long been hesitant about visiting Del Dotto, due to the $40 tour/tasting fee, and a bit of a mixed bag reputation for kitsch - known for frequent and heavy purs from the barrels, we've heard locals refer to the place as "Del Blotto".

We decided that a freind moving to the area from the East Coast was reason enough to spend $40 on a special experience.

We were greeted by a super-energetic showman of a tour guide, which didn't exactly ease our doubts about the kitsch factor. But he was certainly knowledgeable about wine, and we enjoyed some lively discussion before the other couple in our five person tour group arrived.

The tour began with some history about the multi-millionaire owner David DelDotto, who practically invented the infomercial, and made a fortune in motivational speaking and advertising before deciding to invest some of the wealth in Napa Valley winemaking. We then moved to the entrance of the old caves, where our guide gave us a detailed run-down of Del Dotto's focus on the influence of oak barrels on wine. They use almost 100% new oak barrels, of various toasts, on all of their wines, from forests around the world including the USA, France, and Eastern Europe. That said, we moved into the barrel-lined cave, where an onslaught of barrel tastings ensued. The reputation for frequent and heavy pours is not undeserved - we tasted through a Sangiovese, a Cabernet Franc, and about six or seven Cabernet Sauvignons, with a focus on the oak barrel the wine was sampled from. On a couple of wines, we had side-by-side tastes from American vs French Oak. Heading out of the cave, we had a barrel taste of Pinot Noir in the barrel room before wrapping up the affair with a seated tasting of Ports with chocolate truffles. Our guide maintained the somewhat gregarious showman vibe the entire time, but was also informative along with the show, and didn't cross the line into annoying territory.

Now, the intangibles. First, the setting - this is a very old winery, and you feel it in the huge stones and beams of the barrel room. You see it in the pick-axe marks where Chinese laborers dug out the 350ft caves back in 1885. Although the Del Dotto's only bought and renovated the place back in 1997, you get a sense of solidness and history from the place. Second, the wine - not only do the heavy pours come frequently, they are pouring some SERIOUS, big, Napa reds at Del Dotto. These are ripe, concentrated wines, aged in 100% new oak. Big Parker-Point reds, and they are not shy about pointing this out. I believe all of the Cabs that we tasted were in the 94-97 Parker Point range. And while this style of wine can be exhausting, and palate fatigue certainly set in during the tour, standing at the mouth of that cave as we exited, my mouth was buzzing with intense cassis and berry Cabernet fruit to a degree I had not experienced before. And suprisingly pure fruit, considering the oak regimen. Of course, this comes with a price - I think the Cabs ranged from $80-$150. We didn't buy, but it was sure nice to sip.

In conclusion, there is a little kitsch at Del Dotto, with the overly talkative guide and the heavy-handed pours - it is a bit of a show. But there is also something about tasting those intense wines in that setting that makes you feel connected to what Napa Valley is about - the wine, the history. From the laborers chiseling out the caves 125 years ago to an infomercial magnate crafting $125 Cabs in the 21st century, the place is kind of a microcosm for the journey that Napa has taken.

I can't even complain about the $40...

Domaine le Murmurium "Carpe Diem" 2003 Cotes-du-Ventoux

2009-09-23T22:55:00.009-04:00

This blended red wine from Domaine le Murmurium - in the Cotes-du-Ventoux appellation of southwest France - is split 50-50 between Grenache and Syrah. The wine spent 12 months in French oak before bottling, 40% of which was new.

This wine has an inky-purple hue, and a nose that was a bit reticent at first, but opened up with plenty of air to deliver potent aromas of kirsch, crushed berries, cigar box, graphite, and pepper. This wine possesses tremendous depth and complexity. This is a full-throttle Rhone-style wine that spent a season in the southern French sun. The wine unfurls to a full-bodied mouthfeel, with flavors of great concentration - black cherry, plum, and raspberry flavors are richly accented by sandalwood, graphite, and grilled herb notes, with tobacco and spices chiming in. There is fantastic acidity here, and plenty of grip in reserve - the tannins are quite stout in fact, warranting more bottle age, or at least a long decant. The layered finish sings.

For $13, I absolutely love this wine. Tremendous complexity and finesse here for the price point. If you try this bottling and it seems closed at first, give it time - it roars to life with air (or, even better, with bottle age). This is a modern French red of top quality from yet another appellation that has not yet gained the reknown (and prices$) of a Bordeaux or Burgundy. This is top-notch juice, with aging potential - a tremendous value.

Bodegas Luzon "Luzon" 2007 Red Wine, Jumilla

2009-09-23T22:52:00.004-04:00

This flagship Monastrell (with 35% Syrah) from Bodegas Luzon is consistently one of the best value releases around, vintage after vintage. This 2007 wine is a superlative example of the qualty to be found here, at under $7 a bottle! A Jorge Ordonez selection, from the Jumilla appellation of the province of Murcia in southwestern Spain.

This deep ruby-colored wine has a pronounced nose of plums, dusty raspberry, pepper, licorice, and oak. The wine has a smooth attack, with a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, mild tannins, and solid acidity. Flavors are plums and spicy raspberry fruit, with lots of peppery spice, anise, cardamon, and toasty oak. Milk chocolate comes out on the back palate. Flavors stay bright and focused through a fairly long finish with pleasant peppery-fruit aftertaste.

This is simply enjoyable wine for $7. At $10 more, this wine would be in the middle of the pack for values coming out of Spain today, but for the retail it is at, it is tops of its class. Real Monastrell varietal character is here, with meaty and savoury complexity, and fine structure that you just don'expect for less than $10. This is another fantastic tapas wine, to enjoy with chorizo, marinated olives, aged Manchengo, and other full-flavored fare.

Bodegas Atalaya "Atalaya" 2007 Red Wine, Almansa

2009-09-23T22:51:00.006-04:00

This is the innaugural vintage of this blend of Monastrell, Garnacha, and Tintorera from Almansa, a historic part of the Castile-La Mancha region in the extreme west and south of Spain. The wine was aged for eight months in a mix of French and American oak barrels before botlling.

This inky purple-colored wine has an explosive bouquet of crushed violets, stewed plums, cherry liquer, and blueberries, with an array of spices, smoke, and meaty-gamey aromas from the Monastrell. Tasted blind, the nose alone here would give this wine up as a big, "international"-styled red from Spain. On the palate, the wine is smooth but full-bodied, with a refined rusticity. The blend gives great complexity here, as fruit flavors of great depth and intensity are complexed by secondary notes characteristic of each of the three varietals involved. Sweet blackberry, plum, and cherry liqeur mingles with violets and rose petals, spices, licorice, meat, and game. Rustic, chewy tannins come forward in the long, mouth-staining finish.

For $14, this is a steal of a wine. If you like, plush, rustic, Spanish reds with an array of interesting secondary notes going on, you'll love this wine. Reminds me of the Bodegas Luzon Monastrell, another great Spanish value - but there is more going on here. This wine has more intensity and depth of fruit than the Luzon, and is not as dominated by peppery spice. A great combination of sweet fruit, flowers, spices, and game, with great acidity and firm tannins. I enjoyeyed this immensely as a stand-alone, but the smoke notes had me thinking ribs and pulled-pork the whole time.

Gundlach Bundschu "Rhinefarm Vineyard" 2005 Tempranillo, Sonoma Valley

2009-09-06T19:50:00.005-04:00

The Tempranillo vines on Gundlach Bundschu's estate vineyard in the Sonoma Valley were planted in 1993, on the lower block of the vineyard, literally across the street from Sonoma Valley's border with the Carneros appellation. As such, the vines benefit from the cooling influence of the nearby San Pablo Bay, which allows for a long growing season and fully developed flavors without excess sugar or alcohol. The fruit was harvested at a very sane 23.2 brix, which fermented to dryness at only 13.2% alcohol. The wine was aged for 14 months in French and American oak barrels before bottling.

The wine is deep, garnet color with hints of ruby at the edge. The bouquet offers bing cherry, blueberry, and red plum aromas, with hints of leather, roast meat, vanilla bean, and toasty oak. The wine is smooth and medium-bodied on the palate, with nice acidity giving brightness to the flavors. Nice flavors of cherry, strawberry, and blueberry fruit mingle with spice notes of white pepper, cinnamon, and cloves, with the meaty and leathery nature of the Tempranillo lurking in the background. Mild tannins and sweet oak are present, but not obtrusive, and the bright fruit and nice acidity keep things crisp through a solid finish with cherry and strawberry notes lingering.

$28 at the winery is a fair deal for this wine that brings moderate alcohol and excellent acidity quite literally "to the table" - where it is meant to be served. Definitely a Californian expression of the varietal, it trades sweet fruit and oak for the quartz-inflected minerality of a Rioja. But the savoury roast meat, leather, and white pepper notes are there, in true varietal character. We enjoyed this bottle at a steak house with sliced skirt steak and filet, but with the friendly medium body on this wine, I'd love to try it with tapas - empanadas, serrano ham and Manchengo, etc...

Kaiken "Ultra" 2006 Malbec, Mendoza

2009-09-04T22:05:00.001-04:00

This Argentine Malbec was made from hand-selected lots of fruit from 40+ year old vineyards over 1,000 feet above sea-level in Mendoza and the Uco Valley. 80% of the wine was aged in new French oak for 12 months before bottling.

The wine is a deeply extracted ruby-purple color in the glass, and offers an aromatic nose of violets, blueberry and cherry fruit, chalky minerals, and toast. It is very smooth and poised on the attack, with a cool climate Merlot-like softness. As it warms in the glass, the wine opens up to deliver a full-bodied dose of black and blue fruits in the guise of blueberries, black cherries, and plums. The fruit is accented by subtle tobacco notes, dark chocolate, and smoke, with underpinnings of minerality, mild, fine tannins, bright acidity, and a tasteful dose of oak. This marriage of ripe fruit and refined structure holds together nicely, through a lengthy finish of plummy-cherry fruit that brigs some of the chalky, chewy tannins more to the fore.

This is a high-quality, high-altitude Malbec - for $18.99, another fine example of the value coming out of Argentina nowadays. This one maintains a refined Merlot-like flavor profile throughout, with the background of chalky-limestone minerals and a pervasive softness. But the softness doesn't detract from the intensity or the complexity of the fruit. The well-integrated oak influence also makes this one noteworthy for its purity. The great acidity makes this Malbec a natural with foods - think roasted red meats, bolognese pasta, or a ripe cheese like a Pont L'eveque.

Cline Cellars "Ancient Vines" 2007 Zinfandel

2009-09-03T23:25:00.006-04:00

Here is a fairly large-production, readily available California Zinfandel that delivers enough quality and value, with no rough egdes, to earn a review. The wine is made By Cline Cellars of the Sonoma Valley area, from Zinfandel grapes from 100+ year-old vines in the Oakley area of Contra-Costa County. It was aged for 7 months in American oak, 30% of which was new, before bottling.

This Zin is a dark garnet color, with a bright edge. It offers up a solid bouquet of raspberry and brambly blackberry fruit, with cocao powder, coffee, pepper, and oak toast. It is smooth on the attack, and nicely balanced in the mouth. Straightforward Zin flavors of briary raspberries, blackberries, chocolate, licorice, pepper, and oak are quite enjoyable. The wine stays the course, with moderate tannins and modest acidityholding things together through a finish of fair length, with echoes of peppery berries and a solid whack of oak.

This is a decent, quaffable expression of CA Zin that you can find at your local outlet. While there is not exceptional intensity, length, or structure here, this is certainly an authentic taste of Zinfandel fruit at the <$15 price point. An easily recommendable companion with grilled flank steak, or some Mezzo Seco dry jack.

Phillip Staley Vineyards 2006 Viognier, Russian River Valley

2009-09-03T23:24:00.002-04:00

Philip Staley Vineyards & Winery strikes again with this outstanding varietal Viognier from the Staley Estate Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. This wine was cold-fermented in stainless steel tanks and was not put through malo-lactic fermentation to preserve the pure fruit and avoid heaviness.

The wine is a brilliant green-gold in the glass, with a floral bouquet that erupts from the glass in waves of jasmine, honeysuckle, peach, and apricot aromas, with mineral underpinings. The wine is smooth on the attack, with a viscous mouthfeel that is rich and yet delicate. Intense flavors of peaches and apricots are accented by white blossoms, sweet citrus, lanolin, and wet stones. The wine has vibrant acidity, and does a mezmerizing job of balancing the natural richness of the Viognier grape with a crispness that keeps things very far from flabby. The finish is long, and reverberates with fruit, floral, waxy, and mineral notes.

This is another winner from Philip Staley, a California Vio that calls to mind the fine white wines of Condrieu in the Northern Rhone. The floral aromas alone here are exceptional, and the fresh-fruit acidity avoids the common pitfall of flabbiness that sometimes mars CA Vios. Richness and crispness find a great balance in this bottle. $24 at the winery, and this exceptional expression of CA Vio is fine QPR at that price point. Great synergy with pan-fried, curried cod filets and a cucmber-yogurt salad.

Phillip Staley Vineyards 2005 Grenache, Russian River Valley

2009-09-03T23:21:00.004-04:00

This 100% Grenache hails from the Staley Estate Vineyard in the Russian River Valley, made by Phillip Staley Vineyards & Winery, who sample their wines through the Family Wineries tasting room in Healdsburg. Whole clusters were cold-soaked to extract color and flavor compounds before fermentation.

This Grenache has a ruby core that fades to a bright edge. The expressive bouquet is full of raspberry and strawberry fruit, with aromas of rose petals, tanned leather, white pepper, and garrigue. The wine is smooth on the attack, and medium-bodied in the mouth, with excellent balance. Red berry fruit - from tart cranberry to sweet strawberry - is up front, generously accented by roses, mild, peppery spices, and herbs-de-Provence. Present, but well-integrated tannins, and bright acidity really make the flavors pop from the front of the palate through the moderately long and clean finish, with just a touch of oak. Pure, sweet strawberry-rose petal notes linger nicely to extend the experience.

This is a great California Grenache, very true to the Southern Rhone style of ripe but balanced, fruit forward wines of great structure and savoury complexity. The presentation is comparable to a lighter Chatteauneuf-du-Pape. $24 at the Family Wineries tasting room, and well worth that. This quality expression of Grenache is a nice change of pace from the standard fare of CA Cabs, Merlots, and Zinfandel, and would shine in any role where you might drink a fuller-bodied Pinot Noir. This one was perfect with an oil, garlic, and herb-rubbed pork tenderloin with lemony brussels sprouts.

Moshin Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast

2009-08-30T19:29:00.004-04:00

Moshin's Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is a blend of Dijon clones from several vineyards in the area between the Russian River and Dry Creek Valleys. The wine was aged for 10 months in seasoned French oak before bottling.

This Pinot is a pretty ruby color with a bright edge. The bouquet is full of Morello cherry, pomegranate, and strawberry fruit, complexed by lavender, a hint of maple syrup, and savoury brown spice. A silky attack is followed by a smooth, full-bodied mouthfeel for a Pinot. Ripe, sweet red fruit flavors of good intensity are balanced by tart cherry, cranberry and rhubarb notes, with undertones of earth and toasty oak. Bright acidity enhances the tart fruit flavors and the wine opens with air, allowing to bouquet and mouthfeel to open up and deliver the flavors in layers that persist through the long finish. Candied fruit notes linger on the cheeks.

Purchased for $35 at the winery, this is a solid Pinot at that price point - not a great value, but solid, get-what-you-pay-for fare. A good expression of Sonoma Coast terroir, where California sunshine produces sweet, ripe fruit flavors, but cool coastal nights, fog, and shallow, rocky soils, balance the ripeness by getting the grapes to also express the earthy and gamey, 'animal' character found in red Burgundies. A long finish, great purity of fruit, and warm, earthy/savoury accents made this wine very satisfying.

Excellent with crisp-skinned, pan-seared chicken and root vegetables. Would also love to sip this wine with an alpine cheese like gruyere or comte.

Bodega Norton "Privada" 2006 Mendoza, Argentina

2009-08-30T19:27:00.005-04:00

This red blend from Bodega Norton is 40% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 30% Merlot from vines between 50 and 80 years old. The wine was cold-soaked, fermented for 7 days with indigenous yeasts, and was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels, 100% new.

The wine is a deep ruby color, with a crimson edge. The nose offers aromas of black cherry and crushed berries, richly accented by minerals, vanilla, violets, pepper, and toast. The wine is smooth, plush, and full-bodied, with elegant structure and poise. Generous cherry, cassis, and raspberry fruit shines bright and pure, braced by a vibrant core of acidity and gentle, ripe tannins. The layered mouthfeel coats the palate with deep fruit flavors, revealing accents of pepper and cloves, with a broad undertone of mocha-espresso and oak toast. The finish is very long, with pure, dark fruit carried on fine tannins and tastefully touched with oak. Very classy.

I tend to drink variteal Malbecs from Argentina at least fairly often, but seem to sample red blends from that country less often. Wines like this make me wonder why. This Malbec-based red is crafted with a Bordeaux sense of refinement in mind, and is a smashing success. Very ripe, with an unctuous texture, the wine is kept balanced by the solid acidity and structure. The layered flavors and rich accents add to the complexity. A wine for roast beef au jus, or any manner of tastefully seasoned steak. Outstanding value for $18!

Stark Wine "Cuvee Julian" 2004 Syrah, Russian River Valley

2009-08-22T17:51:00.009-04:00

I met Christian Stark, the maker of this wine, while he was pouring in the wine cave/tasting room at Bella Vineyards. We got into a disussion about the Cote-Rotie style of Syrah-Vio co-fermentation, cold storage of the earlier ripening white grape, and other tricks used to get the most from this style. Christian mentioned that he made and bottled a varietal Viognier as well as the Syrah-Vio, and that his bottlings were available at a local Healdsburg wine shop. The next time I was in Healdsburg, I stopped by and picked up this bottle, which spent about another year in my cellar before this tasting. The wine is 95% Russian River Syrah, co-fermented with 5% Viognier.

The wine has a dark garnet core, with a bright edge. The nose offers lifted aromas of violets, crushed red berries, white pepper, and licorice - the Vio really doing its thing with the aromatics. From the attack through the finish, this wine is intense and focused. Really a great CA expression of the spirit of the great wines of the Northern Rhone. Bright acidity frames flavors of plums, raspberries, and currants, with notes of game, licorice, and white pepper. Flavors of roast meats join with plum and cherry liquer on the mid-palate, and the finish is long and lush, with vibrant acidity and ripe, silky tannins framing copious fruit, flowers, and just a hint of smoky oak.

This wine is one of, if not the, best example of a California Syrah that I have come across. Not too soft or flabby, it is notable for its structure - really nice acidity, and ripe, fine tannins that collaborate to present the intense flavors in a bright and layered profile. Really nice wine, not a CA wanna-be imitation of the Cote-Rotie co-ferment, this wine is put together with a purpose.

David Coffaro 2006 Petite Sirah, North Coast

2009-08-22T17:51:00.005-04:00

After sampling the more casual "Fresco" and "ZP2C" red blends from Dry Creek's David Coffaro Winery, it is now time to move on to the more serious cuvees. This wine is 100% Petite Sirah, sourced 30% from Dry Creek Valley, 30% from Russian River Valley, and 40% from Lake County vineyards.

This wine is classic, highly extracted Petite Sirah - as evidenced by the inky purple that coats the glass as soon as you begin to pour. The wine is midnight purple, with no fade. The aromas are brooding dark fruit - blackberries, black currants, and plums, with accents of mocha espresso, sarsparilla, and smoky, toasty oak. The wine is smooth on approach, but burly, full-bodied, and rustic on the palate, with stout-but-ripe tannins bracing the copious fruit. Liquerish, almost Port-ish flavors of grapey, black cherry, and mulled berry fruit coat the palate, etched by robust tannins and complexed by smoky coffee and dark chocolate notes. The finish is mouth-staining and long, with a nice balance of sweet fruit, savory accents, oak toast, and tannic grip.

A classic expression of CA Petite Sirah, this one eschews the exotic side of the grape but hits a home run with the brawny, grape-ey dark fruit, coffee, spice, and tannins. A Pet lover's Pet, which cries out for some prime rib, barbeque ribs, or similar hearty fare. Lots of pure fruit available now, if you don't mind the grip, but this one could age for years. $20 at the winery, and well worth it - a fine example of the value that Petite Sirah still represents in the CA marketplace!

Varaldo "Fantasia 420" 2005 Langhe DOC

2009-08-22T17:49:00.005-04:00

This unusual offering hails from Langhe, a northern Italian sub-appellation of the Piedmont that overlaps the DOCs of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Barbera d'Alba. I would whimsically characterize this wine as a "Baby Super-Piedmont", as it combines the native base varietals of Nebbiolo and Barbera with equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Given the more flexible rules of Langhe (a much more recent DOC (1994) than Tuscany), despite the 'foreign' grapes, this wine is still bottled under a DOC label. The wine was aged for 18 months in French Oak.

The wine is a deep, garnet color, with a ruby fade at the edge. Complex, layered aromas on the nose, with sour cherry and crushed red berry fruits accented by rose petals, sweet oak, orange zest, licorice, and an array of spices. The attack is smooth, with some acidic bite, and the wine reveals taut structure on the palate, with crisp acidity surrounded by generous fruit and firm, grippy tannins. Lots of cherry and spicy raspberry fruit complexed by dark flowers, sandalwood, toasty oak, peppery spices, and hints of citrus unfold in layers on the palate. The whole affair is reigned in at present by the firm, astringent grip on the palate, and the steely core of acidity, yet tangy fruit still lingers long on the finish. A little closed and backward now, the rich fruit, layers, and complexity promise great reward to those with patience in the cellar.

For $24.99, I expected a little less of a serious wine here and pulled the cork way too soon - this one still has years to go before it fully realizes its potential. But the potential is evident now. This wine bridges the gap in the stylistic "Barolo Wars" between traditionalists and modernists. This is hardly a Barolo, but the Nebbiolo definitely finds prominent expression in the blend. The wine offers lots of 'modern', forward fruit, but in a structured and layered package that should offer great complexity and depth with several more years of bottle age. Highly recommended for those with plenty of patience!

Fieldsa 2005 Syrah, Sonoma Valley

2009-08-14T21:32:00.003-04:00

This wine is another Sonoma County Syrah from the Napa-Sonoma Vineyard Group's portfolio. Not much info on this bottling online, but I assume that its provenance is similar to the Eric K James Syrah that I reviewed previously - sourced from old Sonoma Valley vineyards southeast of the town of Sonoma, with a 14 month aging regimen in French Oak.
The wine is a deep purple color, with a garnet edge. The nose offer ripe black cherry, blackberry, and plum aromas touched with crushed violets, chalky minerals, leather, and toasty oak. The wine has a soft attack and a supple, full mouthfeel. Very nice cherry, blackberry, and blueberry pie flavors are intense, but soft and accessible. Nice accents of minerals, camphor, anise, and mild pepper. Fair acidity and gentle, chalky tannins add adequate structure, leading to a fruit-filled finish of fair length that reprises notes of violets and oak toast.
This is another nice, very Californian Syrah in the $20+ price range. Unlike the Eric James, which should see more time in the bottle, the Fieldsa from the same vintage is soft, supple, and very accessible now. I would even say that the sooner you drink it, the better. Plenty of forward fruit matched with some savory, leathery character makes for some fine drinking with roast meats like Morroccan lamb or an herb-crusted pork tenderloin.

Cameron Hughes Wines "Lot 110" 2007 Pinot Noir, Los Carneros

2009-08-08T00:16:00.005-04:00

This Pinot Noir from Los Carneros was purchased by CH Wines as surplus finished wine that the winery had made but did not plan to bottle under their own label, as production had exceeded their sales projections. The wine saw nine months in French oak, 33% of which was new.
The wine is a clear, medium-ruby in the glass, with bing cherry, dried strawberry, and raspberry on the nose, accented by mild baking spices, cloves, and a bit of vanilla oak. The soft attack is followed by a light and slightly thin mouthfeel. Moderate cherry and berry fruit flavors gain a little momentum with air and build on the palate, but don't quite get as layered or intense as I'd like. Accents of cloves, rhubarb, and white chocolate add some interest, but the overall effect is that the wine is a little thin and understated. The finish follows suit - pleasant enough, but modest and slightly abbreviated, with creamy oak on the back end.

Unlike the Lot 102 Cabernet, this Pinot Noir just doesn't quite "get there". Perhaps this is illustrative of the finicky nature of this varietal. It is just too difficult to cut any corners and expect to produce high quality fruit/wine with PN. The high-maintenance grape dictates a higher overhead cost than other varietals just to get a correct, quality expression. For $14, this wine is not a total pass, but real afficionados will not find that "magic value PN" here. This light sipper may be best enjoyed with some Alpine cheeses like Comte or Hoch Yrbrig.

Cameron Hughes Wines "Lot 102" 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford

2009-08-08T00:05:00.002-04:00

Another TN installment on the Cameron Hughes "Lot Series" - this one was purchased for $10.99 at CostCo. Lot 102 is a Rutherford Cabernet, sourced from "a famous high-end grower and made at one of Napa’s most famous estates" - per CH Wines typically confidential disclosure.
The wine is a bright ruby-purple in the glass, and offers a nice bouquet of dusty black cherry, blackberry, and currant fruit, touched with cedary oak and hints of eucalyptus and cocao. The smooth attack leads to a medium-bodied mouthfeel, with lots of forward fruit and suprisingly good balance and polish. Classic Cabernet cherry, blackberry, currant, and cassis fruit abounds here, with some cedary, toasty oak, and mild accents of earth, chocolate, and herb. Good acidity gives brightness to the fruit flavors, which are etched on the palate by ripe and fine-grained tannins. The finish is of decent length, full of flavors consistent with the nose and palate, closing clean and dry.
There is a lot to like here for $11. The flavors don't really evolve much, and the secondary notes are dominated by all the sweet, ripe fruit. But at the price point, this is one of the better Cabernets that I have had recently. A fresh, juicy young Cab is what you should expect for this money, and this one delivers the goods with great varietal character, and more finesse and refinement than you can generally get from a Napa Cab for this kind of money (if you can get anything at all). A great cooking wine - this one had obvious synergy with a bolognese sauce seasoned with a generous half cup from the bottle. Also a great stand alone. Definitely case-worthy as a casual, 'house' Cabernet.

Swanson Vineyards 2005 Merlot, Oakville

2009-08-08T00:04:00.003-04:00

The Swanson Oakville Merlot is a consistent performer each vintage, one of my favorite go-to CA Merlots in the $20-$25 price point. The 2005 is up to that standard. A blend of 86% Merlot, 6% Cabernet, and 4% Syrah from Swanson's Oakville Cross Road Estate Vineyard and Schmidt Ranch Vineyard in the Mayacamas benchlands. The wine spends 20 months in French oak, 40% of which was new.

The wine is a deep, ruby-purple color, with brooding Merlot aromas of black cherry, blackberry, and blueberry, with espresso, licorice, cedar and toast. The attack is soft but plush, and the mouthfeel is silky, with a rich, full body. Ripe cherry and dark berry fruit is generously accented by coffee, chocolate, anise, and oak notes, with mild spices. The very ripe Merlot has modest acidity, but plenty of structure from cabernet-like tannins that are more firm than they have been in previous vintages. The mouth-staining finish is of decent length, echoing, cherry liqueur, plums, cocao, and plenty of toasty oak.

Once again, a very nice, casual Merlot at the $20 price point. The solid grip on this wine actually makes it a candidate for another year or two of bottle age. Great partner for a pan-seared filet mignon drizzled with a de-glaze/pan sauce of the wine and some julienned onion.

Elyse Winery 2006 Petite Sirah, Napa Valley

2009-08-03T12:48:00.001-04:00

This fine example of Petite Syrah is sourced from vineyards on the Rutherford Bench. Although this well-regarded winery is just of highway 29 north of Napa, I found this bottling in TJ's for only $16.99.

The wine is an inky purple color with a ruby edge, with potent, almost Port-ish aromas of baked plums, blackberry, espresso, licorice, cracked pepper, game, and earth. The smooth attack belies the broad and plush mouthfeel of this classic Petite, which saturates the palate with dark fruit flavors of blackberries and plums, with espresso and bittersweet chocolate, complexed by hoisin sauce, eucalyptus, and toasty oak. The wine's present acidity almost hides behind the copious fruit, but it's there. Less reticent are the ripe, dusty tannins that coat the palate on the long and dark fruit-stained finish.

This is a very fine Pet for only $18, an excellent example of the value that can be found with this varietal. It offers hedonistic ripe fruit with plenty of structure, and a touch of rustic refinement and poise. But it can't help but rock - a true Pet at heart, this is not for the faint-hearted, and should be paired with bold fare like a seared strip steak brined in soy, brown sugar, garlic, and ginger.

Barnett Vineyards "Tina Marie Vineyard" 2007 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley

2009-07-29T21:45:00.006-04:00

This Pinot Noir from Barnett is sourced from their Tina Marie Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. A blend of 115, 667, and 777 clones of Cote dOr lineage, the fruit for this wine was cold-soaked for 5-6 days and then fermented with a combination of commercial and indigenous yeasts. The wine was then aged for 11 months in French oak, 45% of which was new. The first 5-6 months in the barrel were 'sur lie', allowing the yeasts to impart additional body and complexity.

The is a well-extracted Pinot, with a deep ruby core and just a slight fade at the edge. The nose turns the intensity of the color into potent aromas of black cherry, raspberry, anise, cocao, and lavender, with undertones of baking spices and toasty oak. The attack is smooth and the wine unfurls on the palate with a plush, rich mouthfeel. No doubt about it, this is a big, ripe PN. Deep and intense, forward fruit flavors of cherry, blackberry, raspberry, and strawberry are in the driver's seat, with accents of tea, saffron, cola, and a chipped-granite minerality. Solid acidity and ripe, sweet tannins frame the flavors and etch them across the palate and cheeks. The finish is long, and brimming with all of this sweet fruit, cocao , and creamy oak.

This is a high-quality example of unabashedly ripe and "Californian" (esp RRV) Pinot Noir. The sweet fruit flavors build incrementally on the palate with great purity, and get so intense that they almost cross the line into outright sweetness in the finish. But yet the solid structure reigns things in just enough - and promises several more years of ageworthiness. This jammy Pinot may be best enjoyed now as a stand-alone with some alpine cheeses and such, or match the bold flavors with seasoned roast pork tenderloin or other hearty fare.

Newton Vineyard 2006 Claret, Napa Valley

2009-07-29T21:44:00.005-04:00

The folks at Newton Vineyards choose to use Claret, the British monniker for a red Bordeaux blend, for their blend of 60% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot.

the wine is a bright purple color in the glass, with a medium-garnet edge. The bouquet is a mix of cherry, cassis, and strawberry fruit, with earth, oak, and some 'green' herbal/vegetal notes. It has a mild attack and is smooth and medium-bodied on the palate, with decent acidity and gentle tannins. Berry flavors of blackberry, strawberry, currant, and casssis are up-front on the palate, with earthy accents, hints of oak, and that 'green' edge. The finish is restrained, and of fair length, and keeps the flavors consistent to the close.

A decent CA Claret - fruit forward, and balanced, but perhaps a touch underripe as evidenced by the faint vegetal aromas and flavors. Not much in the way of complexity or varietal character, even for the $18.99 price point. Still went well with seared pork chops in a rosemary and shallot pan sauce, but I would have to describe this one as rather 'nondescript'.

Vecchia Cantina "Incanto" 2005 Vino Nobile de Montepulciano

2009-07-21T23:19:00.003-04:00

This is a DOCG Vino Nobile de Montepulciano wine from the Vecchia Cantina cooperative, the largest producer in the Poliziana region of southern Tuscany. In accordance with the DOC guidelines, this wine is 78% Sangiovese, with 20% Canaiolo Nero, and 2% Mammolo.

This wine is a deep garnet color with ruby at the edge. The nose offers aromas of black cherry, leather, damp earth, tobacco, mint, and hints of oak. The wine has a smooth attack and is medium-to-full bodied, with good acidity, and mild, grainy tannins. Decent flavors of Morello cherry, plums, and blackberries are mingled with tobacco, bitter chocolate, earth, and a menthol note on the palate, and these flavors follow through to a somewhat brief, but decent finish of dark, woodsy fruit, tobacco, and herbs.

This wine was an $8.99 TJs score, and offers very good value for the money. An enjoyable if not particularly memorable Vino Nobile de Montepulciano that scores points for the combination of authenticity and value. Drinking well now, especially with a beef lasagna or baked ziti.

Antinori "Villa Antinori" 2004 Toscana IGT

2009-07-21T23:17:00.003-04:00

This is a "Baby Super-Tuscan" IGT wine from Antinori, one of the larger producers in Tuscany - and a family that has been making wine in the region for centuries. This blend of 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 5% Syrah was aged for 12 months in French, American and Hungarian oak barriques before bottling.
The wine is a deep garnet color in the glass, with a bouquet of cherry liquer, dried rose petal, herbs, licorice, and oak toast. The attack is smooth and mouthfeel silky, with a brisk streak of acidity. Solid flavors of kirsch, tart raspberry, grilled herbs, roses, licorice, and oak have nice length and depth, braced by the core of acidity and supple tannins. The finish yields more of the same, with poised red fruit flavors enriched by toasty oak, and plenty of tannic grip in reserve.
A solid performance from this IGT at the $14 price-point, this wine offers a good dose of Sangiovese fruit, crafted in a ripe, "international" style. Five years off the vine, the tannins are still pretty firm - so a little more time in the bottle would soften things up a bit. A fine red sauce pasta wine - or, on the short-term, the fat on a seared NY strip steak drizzled with a Chianti reduction would give those tannins something to chew on.

Winery Visit: Barnett Vineyards, Spring Mountain

2009-07-20T16:38:00.006-04:00

With friends visiting from the East Coast, I was very excited to take them up Spring Mountain, to what I consider a special place away from the bustle and glitz of the valley floor. A place of dazzling vistas, where small to mid-size producers make intense wines from mountain fruit, and welcome guests with a hospitality that let's you know they're glad you made the effort to get up the mountain.

With lots of favorites to choose from -Pride, Keenan, Smith-Madrone, Terra Valentine, etc, I decided to take my guests to Barnett Vineyards - a place that I had long anticipated going to, but for one reason or another, never have. Barnett is known for perhaps the most breathtaking view in the valley, as well as one of Napa's iconic wines - their Rattlesnake Hill Cabernet Sauvignon.

Looking on their website, I was promised an intimate, personal, and informative look at their wines, grounds, and an educational discussion on Sring Mountain viticulture and terroir - for a fee of $35, waived with purchase.

We arrived for our appointment on a day of 100-plus degree heat, and being at the top of Spring Mountain made us feel even closer to the sun. We entered the barn-like barrel room to find the party before us still being served by the only person attending to guests that day. They were ushered out to the cave and the server returned and proceeded to quickly guide us through what I can only describe as the most abbreviated and least informative tasting I have ever experienced, with the fans in the barrel room going off the whole time trying to keep the barrels cool. After hasty tastes of Chardonnay, a couple Pinots, and a couple Cabs, we were given a small taste of the Rattlesnake Hill. The next party had already arrived behind us, so we were hustled into the wine cave, led through to the far end and turned loose to "wander the grounds for as long as we liked." We went outside and sipped the $125 Cabernet in the 105-degree heat - and needless to say, it did not show its best. We then wandered around and up to the observation deck to behold one of the most profound and visceral views of the Napa Valley I have ever seen. But the brevity of the entire experience, and the rapid-fire run through of the wines - in short, the stark contrast to what was promised on the website - left us with a bad taste (despite the Rattlesnake Hill's 45+ second finish). We kind of felt trapped into purchasing four bottles just to waive $140 in fees that were pretty much for nothing.

Full disclosure: this visit was so disappointing that I followed up with the winery and was told that someone had called in that day - they were indeed short-staffed, and didn't charge any fees, purchase or no (though we were not told that at the time). To be fair, Barnett may be a fine visit in comfortable weather, when they are fully-staffed and it is not a busy Saturday. But despite some very good (if pricey) wines, and an absolutely heart-stopping view, I don't think we will be back. Not when you can taste or tour for free right down the road at Smith-Madrone, Keenan, or Pride, enjoy sit-down hospitality at Terra Valentine, or an extensive guided tour at Spring Mountain Winery, etc.

Artesa Winery 2005 Cabernet Franc "Ridgeline Vineyard"

2009-07-16T22:14:00.005-04:00

This is another satisfying red wine from the Artesa Winery in the Napa section of the Carneros AVA. Fruit for this 100% Cabernet Franc was grown on their Ridgeline Estate Vineyard in the Alexander Valley. The fruit was whole-berry fermented in a mix of open and closed-top containers, and pressed to French oak barriques, then aged for 18 months before bottling.

This wine is a deep garnet color, with a nice nose full of cassis, black cherry, and blackberry fruit, touched with lavender, smoke, bittersweet chocolate, and mild spices. The attacky is smooth, and leads to a full, velvety mouthfeel reminescent of a big Merlot. The flavors are of ripe Cab Franc, however, with plenty of chocolate-robed black cherry fruit, cloves, smoke, and vanillin oak. Ripe and fruit-forward, but polished thanks to decent acidity and fine, ripe tannins. The structure holds things together through a solid finish of liqeur-ish dark fruits, cocao, violets, and toasty oak.

This is a fine example of California Cabernet Franc, with all the chocolatey fruit you could ask for, but plenty of refined structure and no rough edges. Could definitely benefit from a little more time in the bottle, but it is drinking nicely now after a good decant. Great with a boldly flavored steak, like a cocao-crusted filet mignon. Vella's cocao and oil-rubbed dry jack is also a good match here - see a pattern forming?

$40 at the winery is not cheap, but for Napa, this is solid QPR.

Domaine de Bonserine "La Sarrasine" 2003 Cote Rotie

2009-07-16T22:12:00.003-04:00

This is a relatively young but accessible, classic Cote-Rotie from Domaine de Bonserine. La Sarrasine is comprised of 97% Syrah and 3% Viognier. The wine was aged for 18 months in French oak, 1/3 of which was new.
The wine is a very pretty deep garnet color, with a ruby edge. It offers an expressive bouquet of kirsch, blackberry, and red plums complexed by floral notes, garrigue, olive tapenade, and flinty minerals. The attack is smooth, and the mouthfeel is almost deceptively light - as the flavors are deep and intense. Indeed, the wine is almost Burgundian in the way that it balances lightness and intensity. Red plum, cherry, and dark berry are focused by a bright core of acidity, and joined by complex nuances of herbs, baking spices, iron filings, and floral pastille. Flavors are consistent through the long, layered finish, riding the brisk beam of acidity to a clean close.
I've been drinking a lot of Aussie Shiraz of late, and not a few CA Syrahs. From start to finish, this wine leave no doubt that you have returned to the literal and spiritual home of the varietal, in the Northern Rhone. Not a big, blockbuster Cote-Rotie, this one is decidedly feminine, medium-bodied, and a bit ethereal. And a ridiculous value for $18.99. That's right - a Cote-Rotie for $18.99!
Good food-pairing versatility here - try it with roast pork or lamb rubbed with herbs.

Robert Keenan Winery 2004 Merlot, Napa Valley

2009-07-10T22:00:00.003-04:00

Bang for the buck, Keenan's Napa Valley Merlot is one of my favorite CA Merlots vintage after vintage. The 2004 is a fine iteration of this wine to write about. The Napa Merlot is comprised of 68% Merlot grown at the Keenan Estate high up on Spring Mountain above St.Helena, with the remainder being cooler climate Merlot from Carneros. The wine spends 18 months in French oak prior to bottling.
This well-extracted Merlot has an inky purple core with a dark garnet edge. The nose is a potent combination of dark plums, warm blackberry compote, and black cherry fruit, with lovely and complex notes of roast coffee, cocao, olives, chalky minerals, and oak toast. The attack is velvety smooth, but the wine comes across plenty big on the palate. Lots of ripe fruit here, and if the acidity is modest, the minerality and fine, supple tannins make up the difference. Gobs of dark fruit in the guise of plums, blackberry/blueberry pie, and black cherry mix with mocha-espresso roast, hints of roast herbs and cloves, and a solid-but-balanced dose of toasty oak. The mouth-coating wine closes with a long, fruit-stained finish, with chalky tannins providing pleasant, supple grip.
A particularly nice vintage of a consistently great example of CA Merlot. The Napa bottling is a nice foil to Keenan's Carneros Merlot, which is a cooler climate, bright, medium-bodied, red-fruited wine. The Napa is a big, lush, and forward Merlot, full of dark fruit - but with great balance and complexity. The Carneros bottling could be said to have more food-matching versatility, but the Napa is an absolute guilty pleasure next to a a broiled tenderloin steak topped with gorgonzola and drizzled with a Port balsamic reduction.
If you like CA Merlot, this is a must-try for under $30.

Livermore Valley Cellars "Hansen Ranch" 2006 Zinfandel

2009-07-09T02:01:00.004-04:00

The Hansen Ranch Vineyard is a maturing vineyard in the Livermore Valley, not far from this small producer of top-flight Zinfandels. Per the winery, this wine is a blend of Primitivo, Mendicino, and Hambrect clones of Zinfandel. They call it "Hamintivo".
This wine is a a medium garnet color, with a bright edge. Offers a nice nose of dark berry and cherry fruit, with some peppery spice and toasty oak. Smooth on the attack, ripe and juicy on the palate, with jammy blackberry, raspberry, and black cherry flavors nuanced with briar, earth, and white pepper. Moderate acidity and mild tannins frame the fruit, oak, and spice flavors. A juicy finish of modest length wraps things up with a considerable dollop of oak.
A straightforward, decent Zinfandel here, especially for $16. A little too much oak-to-fruit on this one for my taste, and does betray its solid dose of alcohol by throwing a little heat, but still very enjoyable. Doesn't have as much character as the LVC "Caboose" Zin, with its almost Port-ish intensity, or the classic berry-and-spice LVC "Kestrel Ridge" - but worth a try, tastes vary.

Trefethen Family Vineyards "Double T" 2003 Red Wine

2009-07-05T18:38:00.004-04:00

This wine is Trefethen's Bordeaux blend, with all five Bordeaux varietals present, supporting Cabernet Sauvignon in the lead role. The wine spends 12 months in mixed French and American Oak.
The wine is a deep garnet color, with bright ruby on the edge. The nose is a nice mix of plum, cherry, and distinct red apple-skin aromas, with cloves and red floral nuances, and faint saddle-leather. The attack is smooth, and introduces a medium-bodied wine with good intensity to the flavors of red plums, currants, strawberries, and persistent apple-skin. Chocolate and briary notes emerge on the mid-palate, along with echoes of faint earth and leather. Tannins are gentle, and fine-veined. The finish is of good length, with those apple skin flavors joined by a floral pastille and a faint hint of oak. Closes with refreshing red fruit lingering on the cheeks.
This is a nice wine, for when you don't want to walloped by a hugely extracted, tannic, full-bodied red, but still want to stick with Bordeaux varietals. The red apple skin flavors are distinct and interesting, and the medium-body, balance, and apv % of 13.5% are refreshing, rather than exhausting. There are echoes of Bordeaux in the hints of flowers, saddle leather, and earth - could be a lesser-pedigree Bdx Superieur, if it weren't for the obvious effects of the CA climate. Lots of versatility with food here too - was great with a spice-rubbed pork tenderloin.

David Coffaro Winery "Fresco" 2006 Sonoma County Red Wine

2009-07-01T18:07:00.002-04:00

This is yet another eclectic blend from the David Coffaro Winery in Dry Creek Valley. Fresco is a blend of 22% Alvarelhao, 21% Tempranillo, 21% Tinto Cao, 20% Peloursin, and 16% Carmine. At the winery, I joked with David about it being a "Cali-Rhone-Douro Red".
The wine is a bright garnet, around a dark core. There is an interesting mix on the nose of sweet red berries and sour cherry, with a bit of anise, and faint spiciness. The attack is full of juicy fruit and tart acidity, with raspberry, strawberry, pomegranate, and Morello cherries all coming to mind. Not much evolution across the palate, just a tart, fruity, and forward drink of wine. The moderate finish betrays no rough edges and barely a hint of oak.
Nothing fancy here, just an interesting mix of grapes vinified to make a good, uncomplicated table wine with pure fruit and some very food-friendly acidity. This is a fine pizza or pasta wine, and we enjoyed it with chicken tossed with penne arrabiata. $15/bottle at the winery, or $99/case. Do the math - it's a fine deal!

Artesa Winery 2005 Tempranillo "Reserve", Alexander Valley

2009-07-01T18:06:00.004-04:00

I am finally getting around to posting notes on this very fun bottling that is reasonably priced, and consistently enjoyable, vintage after vintage. This 2005 bottling is 100% Tempranillo from Artesa's Alexander Valley estate vineyard. The wine is aged for 24 months in French oak barriques.
This wine is a deep, inky-purple color with a bright edge. It offers a nice bouquet of ripe blackberry and cherry fruit, with shades of white pepper, clove, leather, and smoke, and a subtle minerality. It is full-bodied, but soft and accessible on the palate, with good concentration to the dark fruit notes of blue and black berries and cherry. Gentle tannins build on the back-palate, framing the fruit with toasty pie-crust oak notes and mineral. A decent, fruit-stained finish wraps things up with a tasteful dollop of smoky oak.
This wine is a fine illustration of how Old World varietals find new expression in the CA sunshine, but still retain some roots. This wine is no traditional Rioja - it is more ripe, higher in alcohol, accessible in youth, and not built for the long haul. That is what Tempranillo grapes get from long, hot days in the sun. But there is lots of great fruit to this wine, and varietal correctness in the leather and smoke nuances - and (perhaps it is just in my head) the faint mineral imprint that suggests the quartz-inflected licorella soils of Rioja, which I know are 5,000+ miles away from the Alexander Valley. Bottom line is that this is a different and very fun bottle of big red wine - a solid deal for $24 at the winery. Great with beef tenderloin skewers and chimichurri.

Penfold's Winery "Bin 128" 2006 Shiraz, Coonawarra

2009-07-01T18:05:00.003-04:00

This is 100% Shiraz from one of Australia's most iconic wineries. Fruit for Bin 128 is sourced entirely from the "Terra Rossa" of the relatively cool-climate Coonawarra region of South Australia. The wine is aged for a year in 100% French oak barrels before bottling.
This Shiraz has a deep purple core with a bright garnet edge. It offers a solid and refined Shiraz bouquet of violets, blackberry, black cherry, and plum, with accents of pepper, chalky minerals, and oak toast. A smooth attack is followed by a medium-bodied mouth feel, with very nice acidity, moderate and supple tannins, and an underpinning of minerality. Generous, poised flavors of black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, and plum fruit are complexed by white pepper, green peppercorn, earth, tar, and game. Restrained but present toffee oak picks up on the back palate and follows through a moderately long finish of dark fruits framed by chalky tannins.
This is a solid Shiraz, a fair value for $24. For a genre characterized by big, jammy, and intense wines, this bottling scores points for its restraint, refinement, and poise. Decidedly medium-bodied, with a tasteful regimen of 100% French oak, this is an Aussie that can tread where Rhone Syrahs go so well - Provencal roast meat dishes, cassoulet, osso bucco, etc.

Cockburn's "Special Reserve" NV Porto, Douro

2009-06-28T16:39:00.004-04:00

This "vintage character" NV Ruby Port from Cockburn's is advertised as "the world's most popular premium Port". This is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinto Cao, Tinto Roriz, and Tinto Barroca. A significant amount of older wines contribute to the blend to create a complex and layered wine.

This port has a deep ruby color with a bright edge. It offers potent aromas of raisiny plum, dried cherries, leather, and cedar, with the grape spirits annouced by a bit of heat. Mouthfeel is layered and complex if a little thin. Flavors of briary berry, dessicated plums, and cherry liqueur are spiritous, with hints of chocolate and oak. Grippy tannins come into play from the mid-palate back, with lots of fruit, interesting accents, and a little heat carrying through a sweet fininsh that lingers.

This is a decent NV Port for about $18. The "vintage character" is evident in the solid structure - could definitely use a little more time in the bottle, though it is fairly accesible now with some air. This one leans toward a more liquer-ish style, and the apv % is evident in a little heat throughout, though it is far from flawed. Mouthfeel is a little thinner than I prefer, and the style a bit more more boozy, but this is an enjoyable finisher for the money - especially with some stilton and candied walnuts or dark chocolates.

Sbragia Family Vineyards "Schmidt Ranch" 2008 Sauvignon Blanc

2009-06-28T16:37:00.009-04:00

Sbragia Family Winery is the personal project of Ed Sbragia, former long-standing master winemaker for Beringer. This medium/small family operation at the north end of Dry Creek Road in the Dry Creek Valley now focuses on single-vineyard varietal wines from Sonoma and Mendocino. The Schmidt Ranch Sauvignon Blanc is 100% SB from Dry Creek Valley, fermented and matured entirely in stainless steel.

The wine is a brilliant pale gold, with a great nose of nectarine, pineapple, citrus and minerals. A brisk attack is followed by a rich mouthfeel framed by zippy acidity. Generous flavors of tropical fruit like pineapple, guava, and lychee are paired with nectarine, apple, pear, and faint spiciness. A little waxy/lanolin character comes in to play on the palate, but the roundness is matched on all sides the crispness of fresh, pure fruit. Finishes with a flourish of tropical fruit and palate-cleansing acidity.

My taste in SB has wandered from the grassy-herbaceousness of the New Zealand benchmark to Sancerre and Bordeaux Blanc. Presently, I like a little more ripeness and roundness in my SBs than is usually found in the Kiwi and Loire Valley offerings at the value price points. When that roundness is acheived without compromising the varietal's signature food-friendly acidity, it hits the bulls-eye, and this SB is all there. Clearly made from from riper grapes grown in warmer climes like Dry Creek, this wine exhibits luscious tropical flavors and fruit-driven richness without sacrificing the crispness that makes Sauv Blanc such a no-brainer with food. This one is a treat with seared sea bass beurre blanc or grouper meuniere, and made for a great picnic wine with a caprese sandwich on Sbragia's lovely deck!

Concannon Vineyard 1999 Petite Sirah "Reserve"

2009-06-28T16:36:00.002-04:00

This bottle was purchased at a library wine sale at the Concannon Winery in the Livermore Valley. I guess this was kind of an experiment to see how a well-crafted CA Petite Syrah fares after a decade of bottle aging. This wine is 100% Petite Sirah from the winery's Livermore Estate Vineyard.

The well-settled wine threw a good deal of sediment on pouring, but showed a nice inky purple color in the decanter, with the slightest fade at the edge, and no "bricking". In the glass, the wine offered an expressive bouquet of raisined plum and ripe berry fruits, with loamy earth, leather, and peppery spice notes. The soft attack, mellow fruit, and relaxed tannins that the wine exhibits are a testament to being well-aged - not the big, young, grippy Pets that I am more used to! This one was supple, with an almost Bordeaux-like quality of restrained fruit allowing earth, coffee, roast meat, and pepper notes to show through - but still enough juicy plum, blackberry, and raisin fruit left to betray its provenance. The smooth, silky texture follows through to a solid finish where the faintest hints of oak and gentle tannins mingle with the fruit.

This one is definitely not going to improve with further aging, but the decade in the bottle didn't do any harm. Fans of big, jammy, and tannic young Pets would do well to pull the cork much sooner in the wine's development, but this library sale gave us an interesting oppotunity to see how the varietal presents after settling into a mellow 'old age'. Still a quality, enjoyable Petite - a fair deal for $26, and a good partner for roast beef au jus.

David Coffaro Winery "ZP2C" 2006 Sonoma County Red Wine

2009-06-27T17:16:00.005-04:00

David Coffaro is a small operation along Dry Creek Road in the Dry Creek Valley just nortwest of Healdsburg. case production on current releases ranges from just 147 cases to 774 cases per bottling. They specialize in unique blends, and make wines from 21 varietals, including: Peloursin, Carignane, Tempranillo, Malbec, Tinto Cao, Tannat, Alvarelhao, Carmine, and other CA obscurities. This bottling is comprised of the leftover 10% of the wine from all barrels after racking. Seriously. Equal parts of all 21 varietals, even including Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc!

The wine is a medium purple-garnet, with a nose of tart fruit like morello cherries, cranberries and pomegranates, with a bit of leather and oak. The wine has a soft attack and is pleasantly light and juicy on the palate, with mild tannins and a solid dose of fresh-fruit acidity. Has some Zinfandel character of raspberry and cherry, with strawberry and some grapey fruit that reminded me of a Charbono (which is not in the blend). Subtle accents of earth, leather and oak add interest. The finish is a bit abbreviated, but closes tasty and clean with lots of fruit and gentle tannins. The overall impression is one of a juicy, casual food wine.

Casual but quality makes for a fun package here - a fair deal for $22. Had a discussion with the server at the winery about the "science" of blending - where precision can make the finished product greater than the sum of its parts... Or, in this case: "10% of everything good all blended togethr equals good!" Somehow, it is hard to argue with that logic. A good partner for a chicken and penne Arrabiata. A perfect pizza/pasta wine.

Bodegas Sierra Salinas "Mira Salinas" 2005 Alicante Red Wine

2009-06-27T17:14:00.003-04:00

Bodegas Sierra Salinas winery is a joint venture of Bodegas Castano (of the Yecla D.O.) and the Swiss Niehus family. The project began in 2000, with the goal of producing a quality wine for export from the old Monastrell vineyards in the Sierra Salinas valley of the Alicante D.O.

This wine is 65% Monastrell, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Garnacha, aged for 20 months in French oak, 60-70% new.

The wine is a deep, glass-staining garnet hue, with brooding aromas of black cherry liquer, blackberry, plum, roast meats, creosote, baking spices, and minerals. It has a bold attack and comes across full-bodied on the palate, with excellent structure in the form of solid acidity and firm-but-ripe tannins - in fact, it took a decent decant to get everything to meld and mellow. Once it did, the wine was a powerhouse with plenty of refinement. Definitely aimed at the international market and some big "Parker Points", this big red offers copious amounts of kirsch, plum, blackberry, and blueberry fruit, amply complimented by oak toast, baking spices, charcoal, minerals, and that unmistakeable Monastrell gaminess. An iron fist in a velvet glove - this big, rustic wine still feels somewhat elegant due to the pedigree and fine structure. The finish is quite long and mouthstaining, with a nice balance of pure fruit and oak.

This is a very nice buy for $24 - kind of a ripe, rustic, Spanish take on a Bandol Rouge. This wine wine screams for strong, aged cheeses, or similar strong flavors like grilled beef or a Bolognese sauce pasta.

Papapietro Perry Winery 2006 Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir

2009-06-19T14:53:00.003-04:00

The Charles Vineyard is located in Mendocino County's Anderson Valley. The blocks are planted to several Dijon and Pommard clones. Ben Papapietro cold-soaks the crushed fruit for several days before fermenting in open-topped containers with select yeasts. After pressing, the wine is aged for 12 months in French oak, 50% of which was new.

This wine is a brilliant ruby color in the glass, with an expressive bouquet of rose petals, nutmeg, cloves, and plenty of red plum and forest-berry fruits. It is light but intense on the palate, with a layered, silky mouthfeel. Flavors of cassis, raspberry, and strawberry are complexed by baking spices, cloves, saffron, and forest floor notes. These flavors are brightened by fine acidity that comes through in a cranberry guise. Fine, sweet tannins and a tasteful touch of smoky oak add structure and depth. The finish is long and harmonious, full of sweet fruit, fine-veined tannins, and a bit of oak toast.

This is yet another vituoso performance by "PPPP". This tiny boutique producer in the Dry Creek Valley really knows their Pinot Noir (and Zinfandel!). This one combines the sweet fruit and concentration of "West Coast" Pinot with the lightness, complexity, and finesse of a more "Old World" style - a hybrid style that has really become a favorite of mine. A guilty pleasure with cedar-planked salmon, but more than robust enough to step it up to braised pork chops or beef Bourgignon.

Eric K. James Vineyards 2005 Syrah, Sonoma Valley

2009-06-17T16:41:00.004-04:00

This 100% Syrah is sourced from an old-vine Sonoma Valley vineyard planted to several cones of Syrah. The wine is produced by the vineyard's owners, working with the Napa-Sonoma Vineyard Group - an organization that provides management and development services for wineries and growers in the area. This wine was aged for 14 months in French oak before bottling.

The wine is a deep purple color, with a garnet edge. Upon opening, the wine seemed a little backward, with aromas of pine sap, menthol-eucalyptus, and chalky minerality overlaying cherry, plum, and blueberry fruit. With time in the air, and especially overnight, the wine opened up to reveal an nice bouquet of black cherry, plum, and blueberry pie, with hints of violets, dark chocolate, orange rind,and limestone minerality. The pine and herbal notes of the first night remained present, but assumed an appropriate place in the background. Good acidity, and fine, gentle tannins make for a soft, smooth mouthfeel that coats the palate with flavor. The finish is of decent length, with lots of black cherry and plum fruit and faint spicy oak.

This wine really came around. The experience reminded me of a conversation I had with the winemaker at Balletto Vineyards who was telling me that Syrah is the most nerve-wracking wine to ferment and age - because "you open the tank one day and it smells like dark fruit, flowers, and heaven, and then a week later you check it and it smells like sweatsocks. You really never know what you're gonna get until it's done." In this case, even after the winemaker is done. This wine was actually enjoyable at first, but in a more "what if the secondary flavors took over?" kind of way. As it integrated, it revealed itself to be a very nice, correct, and interesting expression of CA Syrah - twice the wine on night two!

Definitely a candidate for a little more bottle age or a long decant, but a fair value for $22. This one would be nice with a hearty stew or a lamb cassoulet.

Hendry Ranch Winery 2006 Pinot Noir

2009-06-12T13:49:00.006-04:00

This Pinot Noir is sourced from three vineyard blocks planted to Dijon, Joseph Swan, and UC Davis clones, on the Hendry Ranch Winery estate just west of Napa in the Mayacamas benchlands. The wine was fermented using natural yeasts, and aged for 11 months in French oak barrels, 50% of which were new.

This Pinot is well-extracted, with a bright ruby color and a garnet core. The bouquet offers ripe Pinot aromas of red currants and plums, with an array of baking spices, cloves, and a tasteful dose of toasty oak. The wine is rich and velvety smooth on the palate, with a layered mounthfeel, and fine-veined tannins. Sweet flavors of plum, cherry, and berry fruit are complexed by forest floor notes and plenty of baking spice, clove, and brown sugar accents. Solid acidity keeps the flavors bright and focused through a long finish of sweet fruit, supple tannins, and hints of oak.

This is a very nice, big, "New World" Pinot. The Mayacamas benchlands are warmer than Carneros to the south, and it shows in the ripe, sweet fruit of this wine. With the extraction, apv % around 14.4%, and forward fruit, this may not be for Burgundian Pinot purists - but if you like lush, forward Pinot, with solid structure and complexity, this wine is just right. Tasteful oak influence, nice balance of fruit and acid, supple, ripe tannins, and the briary forest and baking spice notes to add layers of complexity to the sweet fruit - good stuff! An excellent partner to the pork tenderloin rubbed with oil and herbs-de-Provence.

Wolf Blass Wines "Gold Label" 2006 Shiraz, Barossa Valley

2009-06-10T18:45:00.002-04:00

It is sometimes easy to scoff at large-production wines and wineries and pass them off in favor of more boutique fare. But once in a while you have to check in and see how the 'big guys' are doing with economies of scale in producing value-priced wines that are hardly expressions of terroir, but represent solid quality/price rapport. Wolf Blass Wines is part of the multi-national Foster's Wine Estates. They made this 100% Shiraz with fruit sourced from select vineyards throughout the Barossa Valley. The wine was aged for 15 months in mixed French and American Oak.
This Shiraz is a nice, deep garnet hue, with a purple core. The bouquet offers a good dose of jammy-but-refined Shiraz fruit - blackberry preserves, plums, and blueberry pie, with herbal hints of anise and eucalyptus, and a solid whack of creamy oak. A smooth attack is followed by a juicy, fruit-driven mouthfeel framed by my modest, supple tannins and decent acidity. A hint of chalky minerality comes through on the mid-palate, which also helps to balance the ripe fruit notes of dark berries, plums, and toast. Finishes with fair length, and a good balance of fruit, oak, and restraint.
Straightforward, mainstream Barossa Shiraz here. Due to stiff competition in the Oz-Shiraz market, this one is not a steal at $15 - but it is hardly a disappointment. Large-production should make it an accessible find, and it does deliver nice, jammy fruit, with a fair attempt at balance and refinement. A good choice for a summer barbecue, or as a stand alone - perhaps with some clothbound cheddar!

Sequoia Grove Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

2009-06-10T18:44:00.006-04:00

This bottling from a highly-regarded family-owned winery right on Hwy 29 in Rutherford is consistently considered one of the better values in the Napa Cab marketplace, vintage after vintage. The 2004 is comprised of fruit from Rutherford, Oakville, Atlas Peak, and Napa, in a vintage noted for low yields and intense fruit. The wine was aged for one year in American oak, 45% of which was new.

The wine is a deep garnet color with a slight fade at the edge. It possesses an expressive bouquet of black cherry and blackberry, complexed by espresso roast, cocao, pencil shavings, and spice notes of cloves and cinnamon. The attack is smooth and is followed by a rich but refined mouthful of wine, with bright acidity and fine, ripe tannins. Lush flavors of cherry, blackberry, and dark currant are woven through with Bordeaux-esque notes of cigar box and graphite, mocha and toast. The wine is poised and well balanced, and maintains intensity from the mid-palate back, with layered flavors rippling through a very nice finish of solid length and grip.

Like Raymond, Sequoia Grove is one of those reliable, "go-to" producers of quintessential Napa Cabernet at a fair price. The 2004 is no exception. Paid $28 for this bottle, and am completely satisfied. A nice combination of ripe Napa fruit with more than a bit of Old World complexity. Plenty of structure to age and improve for several more years. And - a great steak wine!

Monticello Vineyards 2006 "Presidential Syrah"

2009-06-09T00:23:00.004-04:00

Monticello Vineyards is a small, family winery in the Oak Knoll District of the Napa Valley, just north of the town of Napa. They are known for their award-winning Cabernets and Bordeaux blend, and production is in pretty limited quantities, so how this Syrah ended up at Grocery Outlet I don't know. But, for $14.99, one has to try...

The wine is a deep purple in the glass, with garnet at the edge. The bouquet offers classic Syrah aromas of black cherry, plum, and blackberry fruit, with violets and hints of earth. The attack is soft, and the mouthfeel is gentle and smooth - I would have assumed that this wine had seen more bottle age for how mellow it is. Nonetheless, there is plenty of dark fruit in the guise of cherries, berries, and plums, with violets, nuances of bacon fat and white pepper, and just a hint of oak. The wine is supple and round, but has fair acidity, and gentle, chalky tannins that provide adequate structure. The finish is of decent length, closing clean, mainly on pure fruit.

A little one dimensional, but there is plenty to like here for $15. True varietal character, albeit in a suprisingly soft and smooth guise. If you are looking for an intense, knock-your-socks off Syrah/Shiraz, this isn't it (perhaps try the '06 Teusner below), but there are full fruit flavors and no rough edges here that make for a pleasant and easy drinking wine. Very accessible right now. Paired well with a roast pork tenderloin - would also be a great pasta wine.

Caves-de-Lugny "Les Charmes" 2007 Macon-Lugny

2009-05-31T15:39:00.003-04:00

"Les Charmes" is a bottling of 100% Chardonnay from a large, south-facing, old-vine vineyard near the Burgundy village of Lugny. The wine sees either no oak or very neutral oak, as evidenced by the crisp, pure fruit. This readily available, affordable, and very food-friendly wine is another good example of the value to be had in Maconnais white wines.
The wine is a brilliant pale gold in the glass, with a nice bouquet of grapefruit, green apples, Meyer lemon, wet stones, and a bit of iodine. The attack is brisk and racy, as the wine expresses crisp acidity and minerality right from the start. Very nice, pure Chardonnay flavors open up on the palate, with nuances of grapefruit, quince, pear, apple, and lemon, accented by pervasive minerality and hints of fresh-mown hay. No tropical notes here - this chard is all about peak acidity, pure fruit, and minerals. The crisp, dry finish cleanses the palate, making this a perfect wine to pair with summer meals.
Another fine bargain from the Macon region, this nice little Chard is a great deal for $8.99. The acidity was an excellent foil for crostinis with chevre to start, and followed up very nicely with sole in a mustard-citrus sauce. Very nice expression of pure Chardonnay fruit-driven richness with little or no oak and malolactic enhancement.

Mini-Vertical: Teusner Wines "The Riebke" 2005 & 2006 Shiraz, Barossa Valley

2009-05-30T21:49:00.005-04:00

This was an interesting juxtaposition of two very different wines, both comprised of 100% Shiraz from the same vineyards in the Ebeneezer District of the northern Barossa Valley. Similar vinification practices were used, and both wines spent about twelve months in American oak hogsheads before bottling - so this is a study in pure vintage variation.

The Riebke 2005

This wine is a deep, inky purple with a garnet edge. The nose offers aromas of dark plums, blackberries, and cassis, with tar, sweet oak, and Rhone-ish notes of bacon fat, garrigue, and graphite. It is soft and supple in the mouth, medium-bodied, with pure fruit, sweet tannins, and present acidity. This is a well balanced Shiraz that matches the ripe fruit flavors of blackberry, cherry, and plum, with interesting notes of roast/smoky meats, herbs, earth, and minerals. Plenty of toasty vanilla oak is in the mix as well, but doesn't dominate. The wine is layered through a very nice finish of pure fruit, oak, and gentle tannic grip. A very urbane expression of Barossa Shiraz that pays tribute to the grape's Rhone origins - and an great value at $14.99! Unlike many Aussies, this one is refined enough to pair with roast meat dishes and hard cheeses, etc.

The Riebke 2006

Teusner went from urbane in '05 to "octane" in '06, as the 2006 Riebke is a rip-roaring, full-throttle Barossa Shiraz of the first order! The wine is also a deep, inky purple in the glass. Intense, almost forceful aromas of cherry liquer and blueberry pie erupt from the glass, heavily accented by scorched earth, graphite, oak toast, and faint spices. On the palate this wine is just as brash - full-bodied, plush, jammy, and huge. But I should point out that it maintains serious structure in the form of solid acidity and fine, supple tannins. This is no simple fruit bomb, it is an opulent and intense expression of high-end Aussie Shiraz, with no significant Rhone-ish trappings. Flavors in the mouth are consistent with the nose, gobs of kirsch, blueberry pie, blackberry and plum fruit, with glycerin, scorched earth, tar, white pepper, pain grille, and a hint of eucalyptus. The finish is long and mouth-staining, with plenty of toasty oak and sweet fruit that clings to the cheeks for a long, long time.
This is not a Shiraz for the faint of heart - we actually exclaimed profanities several times while drinking it. It is an apt description - this is a @#$%#$ of a Shiraz!
If you are looking for straight-down-the-middle, hedonistic Barossa fare, it would be hard to beat this wine at any price point. Its no Grange, but at $16.99, it is an absolute steal.
This wine would overpower most foods, except for grilled meats and strong cheeses like dry jack or a bandaged cheddar.

J Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley

2009-05-27T22:50:00.005-04:00

There are some instances in selecting wines for purchase where one feels like they are using the "ask the audience" lifeline on 'Millionaire'. I have long wandered by the label for this perpetually sold out wine in Safeway, wondering: "can that many people really be wrong about a $16 Pinot Gris?"... And alternately wondering: "or is this just one nut with some kind of weird obsession for this wine?"... Well, passing by to actually find a bottle on the shelf gave me the chance to see for myself...

This Pinot Gris is sourced from various vinetards in Sonoma County's Russian River Valley. Each vineyard lot is fermented separately in 100% stainless steel, with no malo-lactic fermentation being employed. The wine is cold-stabilized, and then the blend is assembled.

The wine is a clear, straw-gold in the glass, with a very nice bouquet of orange blossoms, white peach, pear, apple, minerals, and a touch of honey. A smooth attack leads to a full-bodied mouthfeel, with tremendous richness for a non-malo, unoaked wine. The richness is matched from start to finish by racy fresh-fruit acidity that makes the flavors really vivid. The white peach, apple, pear flavors are joined on the palate by round and tropical notes of melon, lemon meringue, and mango, with plenty of floral overtones of jasmine and honeysuckle, as well as mineral and fresh-mown hay notes. The vinish is solid, leaving a waxy-viscous coating of white grape and honey on the cheeks, but cleansed by the zippy acidity to close crisp and dry.

The audience is on! This is a great CA Pinot Gris, a fine example of why the Alsatian style of rich-but-crisp Gris is becoming my favorite white wine. I love the melon and hay notes, and the purity of the unoaked fruit. With no invasive oak or malo, this wine still has plenty of stuffing to pair with curries or thai, chicken or pork. Worked very well with miso crusted halibut with stir-fried vegetables.

Hendry Ranch Winery "Block 28" 2005 Zinfandel, Napa Valley

2009-05-25T17:26:00.006-04:00

Located in the benchlands south of the Mayacamas Mountains, Hendry Ranch Winery is right between the Carneros, Oak Knoll, and Mt Veeder appellations, and as such is subject to a moderate maritime climate that is a mixture of the climates you would find in those three AVA's. Though, as George, the owner likes to say: "the American AVA system is pretty meaningless - we have way more interesting things to put on our labels". The climate and stony "boomer series" soils are perfect for turning out top-notch Zinfandel.

The Block 28 Zin was havested on Oct 2, 2005, saignage was employed to gain the right sugar levels, and the wine was fermented to dryness at 15.2% apv. The wine was the aged for 15 months in French oak, 65% of which was new.

The wine is deep, dark garnet in the glass, with a ruby edge, and brooding aromas of spicy, briary berries, currant, anise, white pepper, earth, and toasty oak. The Block 28 is a big Zin - concentrated, but poised with a smooth attack that then explodes on the palate in a swell of juicy berry and spice flavors. Raspberry, boysenberry, and mulberry are in the fore, with black currant, licorice, bittersweet chocolate, and any array of complex spice notes. The torrent of flavors carries through to a long and saturated finish, never betraying the heat of the immodest apv %. Acidity is solid, and the tannins are sweet and ripe - very good structure for a 100% Zin.

This is great Zinfandel, combining the best of the "classic" style of juicy berries & spice and bright acidity with the more "Turley-esque" style of high octane and intense, ripe fruit. $30 at the winery, and well worth it - this wine screams out for slow cooked ribs - or as George says, artichokes!

Twomey Vineyards 2002 Merlot, Napa Valley

2009-05-25T17:25:00.014-04:00

Twomey Vineyards is an offshoot of Siler Oak Cellars that began when Silver Oak purchased the Soda Canyon Vineyard in southeast Napa Valley, with the intention of growing Cabernet there. Lo and behold they found they had purchased one of Napa's signature caches of Merlot blocks, planted to top-flight clones. If it ain't broke, don't just not fix it - shepherd it along with an enterprise destined to gain accolades for producing "the #1 Merlot in California".

The 2002 Twomey Merlot is 99.4% Merlot with 0.6% Cabernet Franc. Don't ask how anybody knows that anything would taste better with 0.6% of something else blended in, but trust me - after tasting this Merlot, you will not be questioning the winemaker's judgement. The wine was aged for 16 months in French oak, approximately two-thirds of which was new.

The wine is a deep violet color surrounded by ruby. The bouquet offers stunning aromas of black cherry and plums with herbs, Asian spices, espresso roast, and cloves. Could spend a long time just smelling this one without even tasting...but...

The attack and mouthfeel are pure velvet, and introduce the palate to intense flavors of dark chocolate-covered cherries, mixed berries and plums, mocha-espresso roast, garrigue, and positively exotic spices. I try to bring a layman's sensibility to tasting notes, but at some point this Merlot surpassed my threshold for for description. In short - I was tasting "WOW"! There is some indefinable Right Bank Bordeaux quality that CA Merlots seldom touch upon, but this one picks up that ball and runs with it. The finish is somehow both mouth-staining and elegant, and goes on and on.

This wine is serious business - earns the PR tags about "a Right Bank wine on steroids!". The overall impression is one of voluptuousness - silky, but saturated - ripe, but incredibly complex for a grape sometimes derided for its lack of complexity. I have had many great CA Merlots, and it may just be the freshness of the memory, but this one is at the head of the pack right now. Combines the best of Old World character with ripe California fruit. Truly memorable.

$65 at the winery, and to comment on QPR - $195 jumped out of my pocket when I heard the damage, and three went home with me. I am now kicking myself for not being in debt.

I paired this one with a modest serving of filet mignon with balsamic reduction and buttery Swiss chard, and enjoyed much of it afterward as a stand alone. But I recommend pairing this wine with whatever makes you really happy, be it food, cheese, or good company.

Savor this one - salut!

Voss Vineyards 2004 Viognier, Napa Valley

2009-05-25T17:25:00.013-04:00

Voss Vineyards is a Napa, CA winery owned by a member of the Hill Smith family, known for their Yalumba Winery in Australia's Barossa Valley, as well as New Zealand's Nautilus Estate. This Viognier is from the Cold Creek Vineyard in the Carneros AVA south of Napa Valley, where cool climates and well-drained sandy loam soils yield concentrated and mature fruit with great natural acidity. The grapes were whole-cluster pressed and the free-run juice was cold-stabilized and underwent a two month long wild yeast fermentation in 1-3 year old Burgundy barrels. The wine was aged 'sur lie' for seven months before bottling.

The wine is a brilliant clear gold in the glass, with floral aromas of honeysuckle, peaches, nectarines, and hints of ginger-y spice. A crisp attack is followed by a nicely balanced mouthfeel, with richness from lees aging played against bracing fresh-fruit acidity. Crisp fruit flavors of white peach and apricot are melded with tropical notes of mango and citrus, with jasmine and honeysuckle overtones. The finish is satisfying, with copious fruit flavors brightened by brisk acidity. Closes clean and crisp.

Great performance from a CA Vio in the $16 price range. Authentic varietal character without the flaws of overripeness or flabiness that can really compromise this grape's wonderful food-friendliness. Tremendous floral aromatics, and all of the pure grape-driven flavors that remind you why Vio is such a "must do" once in a while. Excellent with mildly flavored white fish that lets the delicate flavors of the wine really shine - like the Tilapia with tangerine EVOO, fresh basil, salt & pepper that we enjoyed it with.

W.&J. Graham's "Six Grapes" Reserve NV Port

2009-05-25T17:24:00.002-04:00

This NV Ruby Port derives its name from the six traditional Port grape varietals used in the blend: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Amarela and Tintao Cão. The fruit is sourced from many of the same Quintas that Graham's harvests their declared vintages from, with a small portion sourced from Symington Family vineyards. Fortified to 19.5% apv, this NV is made in the style sometimes called "Vintage Character" due to its body and tannic structure.

Opaque purple in the glass with a black core, this wine offers potent aromas of stewed plums, dried cherries, dusty earth, anise, and spices. Come across viscous and sweet on the palate, but with red wine character and tannins that provide a nice counterpoint. Lots of alcohol here, but also lots of flavor that reminds you you're drinking a wine and not just grape spirits. This Port is all dried cherries, plums, and prunes, with spiciness and a bit of grip. Great finish of sweet black fruits. Comes together nicely over a few days with some overhead in the bottle.

I have very limited experience with vintage ports, and some of those I have tried were too young and tannic. This wine gave me a simplified glimpse of what a solid vintage would head towards with adequate age. Easily my favorite true NV Porto to date, which makes for a great deal at $18. I have a soft spot for a few CA Zinfandel "Ports" that I have tried, but that is to some extent a different animal. "Six Grapes" is great with blue-veined cheeses, and an absolute guilty pleasure with a warm chocolate "lava" cake. Highly recommended!

J.Lohr Vineyards "Hilltop Vineyard" 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-05-23T16:30:00.003-04:00

This Cabernet is sourced from J Lohr's prized Hilltop Vineyard in the Paso Robles region of San Luis Obispo County. The Cabernet undergoes fermentation and an extended maceration in stainless steel before being aged in 80% new French oak for 20 months. It is blended with small percentages of Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec.

The wine is deep purple in the glass, with a garnet edge. The bouquet opens with air to offer solid aromas of black cherry, currant, and blackberry pie, with hints of mint, anise, and pain grille. A smooth attack is followed by medium body, with nice primary flavors of black cherry, blackberry, and currant accented by cedar, mint, cloves, anise, and vanilla. Very good acidity and ripe tannins with supple grip provide solid structure through to a moderately long finish full of cherry liqueur, dark berries, and brioche toast that stays dry and is never juicy.

This is a solid example of what I expect in a good (not great) $25 bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon. Rather primary and conventional, but varietally spot-on in California fashion without being overly ripe or flabby. Has the tannic structure to age for several years and improve, but is accessible now with a good decant. Tasteful oak regimen, good balance - definitely works if you want to play it safe at the price point. Try with dry jack or some clothbound cheddar, or a no-brainer with a rather 'naked' piece of tender steak.

Penley Estates "Hyland" 2006 Shiraz

2009-05-20T21:57:00.002-04:00

Been drinking a lot of Aussie Shiraz lately - big, chewy, ripe red wines, but I think it is a similar counter-intuitive principle to the whole "spicy Mexican or Asian (etc) foods actually cool you down in the summer" thing. Robust as they are, these big, jammy wines just work as the daytime heat cools in the evening - and of course, they are great with bbq. I feel the same way about Zinfandel - must be the spiciness, as the rich, silky brawn of the Bordeaux grapes doesn't quite pair as well with the season...
Anyway, Penley Estates sources this Hyland Shiraz from the Coonawarra region of southeastern Australia. The wine was fermented to 15% apv, and matured for one year in American oak, 25% of which was new.
The wine is a clear, deep garnet, with an opaque purple core. The nose holds solid blackberry and blueberry pie aromas, with creamy vanilla oak, and notes of aniseseed, menthol-eucalyptus, and sasaparilla root. A soft and forward attack is followed by a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, with moderate acidity and mellow tannins with sufficient grip. Very accessible now. Flavors are mouthfilling and consistent with the nose - berry pie, with baked plum and a hint of earthiness and peppery spice added to the mix. The finish is solid and fruit-stained, with a tasteful whack of vanilla oak toast and enough structure to add a touch of refinement.
Another solid performer from Oz in the $12 range. Mainstream for the genre - these are not really distinguished Shiraz bottlings, but as the QPR equation goes, the "upper-middle end of the pack" of Aussies tends to offer more wine per dollar than most other genres at your local market. You have to be in the mood for lots of ripe fruit, but if you are, you'll find lots of satisfaction in the Australia section for $10-$15. Like many other selections from the '06 vintage, Penley's Hyland brings pronounced herbal, root, and menthol-eucalyptus accents to the mix that add interest. A solid value that does well on its own or would be great with a grilled steak or rack of slow-cooked ribs.

Au Bon Climat 2007 Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc

2009-05-20T21:55:00.004-04:00

Renowned for quality Pinot Noirs at reasonable prices, this Central Coast white blend represents a nice change of pace from this negociant/estate winery located on Santa Barbara County's Bien Nacido Vineyard. Not a lot of technical info available on this proprietary white blend, and mine is not the palate to discern the % of Gris v Blanc that went into the blend. I can say that the wine is crisp and pure, with a tasteful hint of of roundness and toast that suggest a small part of the mix saw at least partial malolactic fermentation in used barrels.
The wine is a brilliant pale gold in the glass, with aromas of green apples, meyer lemon, hay, iodine, and minerals that opened nicely as it warmed from fridge temperature. A brisk attack betrays zippy, fresh-fruit acidity that is matched by plenty of apple, pear, grapefruit, and pineapple, touched with gingery spices and the aforementioned hint of oak. Finishes crisp and clean with a nice balance of sweet fruit and racy acids.
Real nice performance here for $14. This is a fine change of pace from standard CA fare of Chards and Sauv Blancs. An impressive expression of Alsace varietals, with the grain, iodine, and mineral notes that you might expect from it's Old World counterparts. The crisp acidity here is palate-cleansing - this wine just begs to be on the dinner table, cozied up to some nice white fish, or maybe a grilled chicken pasta and cream sauce. Ours rocked with seared sea bass with a citrus meuniere.

Rocland Estate "The Chocolate Box" 2006 Shiraz, Barossa Valley

2009-05-16T13:08:00.002-04:00

I just couldn't resist this marketing ploy - the promise of a rich, chocolate-y Barossa Shiraz is something I just don't pass up that often. This 100% Shiraz from Rocland Estate of the Barossa was basket-pressed and fermented to 14.9%apv, then aged for 18 months in new and second-use American and French oak hogsheads.
The wine is a clear, deep garnet with a magenta edge, with decent aromas of dark plums, blackberries, and cracked peppercorn on the nose, nuanced by mocha espresso and eucalyptus. It is medium to full-bodied in the mouth, very fruit forward, but with some acidity and mild, ripe tannins keeping things in line. There are certainly chocolate flavors here, but not as dominant as the label might suggest. Instead, this is another solid Barossa Shiraz in classic form - lots of blackberry, plum, and black cherry fruit, with vanilla oak, coffee, white pepper, scorched earth, and plenty of herbal-eucalyptus accents. The solid finish is full of sweet fruit and choco-vanilla oak, with mildly drying tannins.
If this weren't such a satisfying offering, I'd gripe about false advertising, as this should have been called "The Shiraz Box". No exceptional degree of chocolate flavoring here, just solid, if undistinguished, mainstream Barossa fare. Will certainly fix your Aussie Shiraz jones, but the quality-price rapport in the genre is so favorable that this nice wine is just a decent value at $18.